Namibia Part 2 – Center

From Betta, we continued our drive to Sesriem. We first detoured to Duwisib castle, but decided it probably wasn’t worth the entry fee. Coming from Europe, we’re a bit spoiled with pretty castles I guess. The rest of the drive took longer than expected, because the scenery was really nice and we spotted quite some animals along the way: oryx antelopes, ostriches and zebras! Not too bad.

We arrived in Sesriem at noon, grabbed a pie for lunch and checked into our camp inside the national park. This was the most expensive and worst value for the money campsite so far, but it would allow us to see sunset and sunrise in the park. First, we headed to Sesriem Canyon although we probably should have waited longer with that. It was sizzling hot! We felt like roasted chicken hiking through the canyon in the midday heat. Haha. Oh well! It was nice to see, but not really spectacular for us.

Later, we drove further into the national park to see some sand dunes. The landscape was sooo beautiful!! We kept stopping for photos all the time. Our favourite dune was Dune 40, which was really picturesque. We stayed there for quite a while to wait until the light got better and better and took loads of photos.

We also checked out Dune 45 where we were going to see the sunrise next day, and left for Elim Dune for sunset. Not sure this was the best decision, since it’s a widespread kind of dune which was tough to climb. The pretty part about it was that there was grass growing on there though, so that looked very nice in the evening light.

The sunset was ok, nothing to write home about. We headed back to the campsite shortly after, to cook dinner and go sleep early. Next day the alarm was set for 5.30, to start driving as soon as the gate would open at 6.00. If you don’t, you don’t make the sunrise at Dune 45. Also, if you keep to the speed limit, you won’t make it in time. Lol. Anyways, we made it, climbed up more or less quickly (dunes are so exhausting!!) and watched the sun rise slowly, changing the colours of the surrounding sand dunes every minute. The light was just amazing!! What was also really cool was that we were able to see the (full?) moon and the sun at the same time, facing each other.

A good start into day 6! After we had properly appreciated the surrounding dunes, we drove on to Sossusvlei to see the most famous part of the national park: Dead Vlei. I was a bit worried about the last 5 km of road which are 4wd only, but we deflated our tires appropriately for sand and were fine following the tracks. It was actually fun!

From the parking, we first hiked up Big Daddy Dune halfway, then ran down the side. We could have climbed up all the way, but firstly I was kind of done with climbing sand dunes and secondly, I really wanted to get down into Dead Vlei when the light was still kind of good. So that’s what we did and it was… stunning!!

Yeps, this is the place where those famous photos are from. White ground, brown/blackish trees, red dunes and blue skies. An incredible combination! We spent a couple of hours here, making sure to take the best photos possible.

We left to drive around some more and to see Hidden Vlei which was described in the guidebook as an easy hike. Haha, certainly not in the midday heat! Also, it was not really worth the pain, as Dead Vlei is just the best and nothing could top that anymore after.

Anyways, we at least felt like we had seen it all, so ready to leave the national park and head towards Solitaire. Here, we were luckily able to fix our fridge which had had an issue since the evening before. An essential piece of equipment in the heat of Namibia! We also bought some of the famous apple pie in Solitaire before heading just a little bit further to an amazing little campsite. The location was beautiful, there were turtles crawling around and at night time we watched some shy zebras next to the waterhole. Unfortunately, they never really came out of the shadow, but it was still really really cool to hear them all around us in the dark. Sleeping between zebras – I like!

Day 7 brought us back to the cooler coast past some pretty landscapes and galloping zebras. At last we got to see them! The rest of the drive was not as interesting, Kuiseb Canyon and the other viewpoints mildly interesting.

Then we arrived in Walvis Bay, where we did some groceries before checking out the famous flamingos. They’re everywhere here and there’s so many of them! Really cool.

For the night, we drove halfway to Swakopmund to Langstrand where we found a cheap if very basic camping. It was cold, gloomy beach time again!

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The following day, we checked out Swakopmund a bit and did some more groceries. Swakopmund is definitely much nicer than Lüderitz, the German influence is much more visible and it’s the prettiest town we have seen in Namibia so far.

From here, it was a short drive only to Spitzkoppe where we arrived in time for a late lunch. It took us a while to pick a campsite since there are sooo many beautiful ones, set between photogenic rocks, scattered really far apart. Basically, you drive around, look at what’s all available and take your pick!

We were lucky to arrive early and have almost the full choice of options – but in any case there are enough pretty sites for everyone! Site 9B appealed to us the most with its beautiful setting which made for great pictures later on when the sun went down.

Before settling down, we drove around a bit in the huge area and took lots of photos. It’s a very picturesque place! There’s also a rock bridge which looks cool both in the late afternoon, as in the early morning.

We spent the evening with a successful braai (Afrikaans for BBQ) and some grilled marshmallows while watching the beautiful starry sky above us. Out here, there’s almost no light pollution, so you can see sooo many stars!

In the morning of Day 9, we drove around a bit more to take some photos in the morning light. Have I mentioned how beautiful this place is!?

Then, our roadtrip took us back to the coast, more into Northern Namibia…

Namibia Part 1 – South

When we arrived in Windhoek, I was excited and a little overwhelmed at the same time. Excited for Namibia and our 4×4 with roof tent, and overwhelmed because it had all happened so quickly. We were just in Ethiopia… and then suddenly here, since we pre-poned our flight to Windhoek to avoid potential problems with Ethiopian immigration as they made a mistake and gave us 29 days instead of 30. We had booked an AirBnB to get ourselves a bit organised before receiving our car for the next 5.5 weeks. Yay!

We first headed South, on a nice tar road until shortly before Keetmanshoop where we found a pretty campsite surrounded by quiver trees. They are so cool!! After struggling with the roof tent, a thunderstorm surprised us. We first fled into the roof tent, then realized we were probably not save in there when lightning struck very close, so fled into the car. At least our roof tent withstood the storm and rain test – and it didn’t last too long. Afterwards, we were treated to some beautiful evening light, kitschy rainbows and photogenic dark clouds in the distance. A good start after all!

On day 2, we headed further South to Fish River Canyon, an easy drive during which we spotted some Oryx antelopes. The canyon was really cool, supposedly it’s the 2nd biggest one after Grand Canyon! There’s different viewpoints which can be reached via rough dirt roads – the first time we were glad to have a 4×4. The views were great everywhere!

We then drove further to Aus, where we wanted to camp – but the nice campsite was fully booked and the one in town didn’t appeal to us. So we decided to wild camp at the wild horses viewpoint. We were lucky enough to spot some wild horses over the next day, although less at the waterhole than while driving between Aus, Kolmanskop and Lüderitz.

Day 3 started with a visit to nearby Kolmanskop, a ghost town that is being swallowed up by the surrounding desert step by step. It was much cooler than expected!! We were in photo paradise.

The old buildings, the sand which is piling high in same places, the doors which are barely still hanging in there… it just all looks very photogenic. It was also much larger than expected, so we spent over 3 h wandering around, exploring, taking photos.

From here, we went on to Lüderitz which in return was a bit underwhelming. Took some photos of old houses, checked out the expensive campsite on Shark island, decided not to stay there, moved on to the peninsula to see Diaz Point and the surrounding bays. We were not so lucky on the peninsula: we saw some pretty flamingos around Diaz Point and some seals and penguins on the islands too far away to take proper pictures. The other bays were virtually empty besides the ever-present seagulls. Since there wasn’t really an appealing campsite nearby, we decided to wild camp again – in Witmuur bay which at first seemed sheltered. Later, quite some wind came up and it was coooold. The whole day we had been cold already, with clouds hanging low, strong winds and high humidity in the air. Let’s just say it was not an enjoyable night… The highlight of our stay on the peninsula came next morning when we saw 3 jackals in Griffith Bay! We also saw some more flamingos and other birds.

After this night, we were definitely ready for some warmth again though! We drove back to Aus and then up North, taking the photogenic D707 road with many photo stops, all the way to Betta. Here we found a really nice campsite, not the best views but really good facilities and most importantly: good showers to clean ourselves up after wild camping for two nights. A good day and finish to our „South“ Namibia adventures.

Ethiopia – Summary & Pictures

People: Ouff. How not to make this one sound too bad!? Well, we did meet some nice people, for example owners of well-running local restaurants who are not dependant on tourists. Anyone who worked in transportation though, was an a… And everyone wanted something from us: money, pen, be our guide,… It was exhausting. Literally no friendly conversation would just remain friendly – it would always end in a request. Also, people lied to our face many times e.g. that there was water in the bathroom when there wasn’t (for days probably already). Unfortunately, Ethiopia has been the most exhausting country we have ever travelled, where we experienced the most hassle.

Food: It was a nice change after expensive South America, to go out for food every day three times a day again. But at the smaller restaurants there often wasn’t much choice, and after a while I was a bit sick of injera (sour pancake) and shiro (lentil paste) – the most common dish. Sometimes, they had mixed vegetarian platters which we quite enjoyed and the pasta was often quite tasty. For once, being a vegetarian was pretty easy!

Weather: We travelled Ethiopia in dry season, so it was sunny and nice. In the evenings you did need something long though, as it got quite chilly.

Costs: On average, we spent almost 30€/person/day which is below what we expected, but certainly above what we could have spent. But as travelling Ethiopia was quite exhausting, we ended up getting better accommodation over the course of the weeks and booked quite some flights instead of enduring more long bus trips. Also, anything touristy like entrance fees or the Danakil tour cost a lot more than you would expect from an otherwise cheap country like Ethiopia.

Accommodation: We stayed in simple double rooms, mostly with our own bath room, for very little money. Finally, a country like that again! It was basic though, internet a struggle, water not always available etc.

Infrastructure: Busses were very old, uncomfortable and got filled to the max. Same as minibuses. As soon as you entered the bus station, you would get stormed at by guys who would pull you into their van and take the backpack off your shoulders. It was very exhausting. The bus trips took long even for short distances and since people don’t shower much at all and some people throw up, the smell was often bad. We also took some flights, to avoid some of such bus rides.

Illnesses: We both had some stomach issues at one point – I got it really bad for the first time. But I guess that’s normal in Ethiopia.

Safety: In Dire Dawa and Harar, I didn’t feel so safe with many weird characters hanging around in the streets. The rest of the country was no issue.

Itinerary: We travelled along the Historical Circuit in the North, clockwise: Addis – Bahir Dar – Gondar – Simien Mountains – Axum – Tigray – Danakil Depression – Lalibela. We then added a complicated detour to Harar, from Lalibela back to Bahir Dar by bus, then a flight to Addis, another one to Dire Dawa, and a minibus to Harar. Not sure it was worth the effort.

Highlight: Danakil Depression.

Lowlight: The people, our visa situation and Dire Dawa/Harar.

Click on the photos below to see our full photo album of Ethiopia:

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Destination: Everywhere