Visiting Maputo

From Malawi, we crossed into Mozambique where we spent one night in Tete – a city with nothing to offer, except for an amazing free hotel stay that we were lucky to receive. After a too short night in one of the comfiest beds in a while, we took a flight South to Maputo – the capital of Mozambique.

We only planned to spend half a day here, as there is not much to see and do. Supposedly, it’s a great city to party – but as we were not there on a weekend, I can’t judge that. Instead, we headed for a short walk to see the city’s main sights. I really liked the main cathedral which looks very modern, although it was built from 1936-44 already.

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Right next to it were the Municipality (nothing special), the Independence Square (just a big square with a statue) and the so-called Iron House. That one was a bit more special again – a house entirely built out of iron. It was supposed to be used as a seat for the government, but proved to be a bad idea as it got too hot inside the iron house (no way…who could have guessed!?). Haha.

We continued our walk down to the city fortress, which again was not too exciting. Maputo – we didn’t expect much from you, and we were right. It’s not a bad city, but there’s just not much to it.

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Malawi – Summary & Pictures

People: Malawians are known for their friendliness, and we can only confirm that! However, we did find them sometimes quite slow in understanding even simple questions, and we do not think it was necessarily the language barrier… We stayed at some typical backpacker places again, so met some more people than the last few months. We also hung out with an older Canadian couple for a few days, who are travelling Africa in their own car. Retirement goals!?

Food: It was a hit or miss. Even at the same restaurant, it could be great one day and very average next day – even if you ordered the exact same dish. Very odd. In general, food at hostels was more expensive than expected and we often felt that it was overpriced for what it was. That being said, we also had some great fish and tacos in Malawi!

Weather: Dry and sunny throughout, with some clouds here and there. The nights were often chilly. In Nkhata Bay, we caught a rather rainy day and decided to move on quickly after looking at the forecast.

Costs: We only spent 24€/person/day in Malawi – making it one of the cheapest countries of our world trip. We saved lots of money by camping instead of taking expensive double rooms, however food was pricey. We didn’t spend a lot of money on activities, but rather relaxed a lot on the shores of Lake Malawi – which also contributed to our low spending.

Accommodation: We mostly camped and slept in our tent in Malawi which made accommodation very cheap. A dorm bed would usually cost around 10€pp whereas camping was always 4€pp. Doubles would have been way too much, starting at 30$ for a very simple room without bathroom. Only in Cape Maclear, we stayed in a hut for 12,5€, but regretted that, moving back to our tent next day. During the hikes in Mulanje, we slept in very simple huts on not so hygienic looking mats.

Infrastructure: We traveled around Malawi on busses and minibusses. The latter were often very crammed and exhausting, whereas the bigger busses were quite nice for African standards. Sharing normal cars is also quite common, where you’re expected to squeeze with 4 people on the back seat.

Illnesses: All good once again.

Safety: Always felt safe.

Itinerary: We followed a typical backpacker route along the lake shore, with a detour to Mulanje in the end. Unfortunately, visiting Likoma Island didn’t fit our schedule as the boat only goes on certain days. Also, we skipped Livingstonia as it sounded like too much of a hassle to get there for what it was. I regret a bit not stopping by Zomba Plateau for a day, but we were a bit tired of travelling and changing places a lot by the time we entered Malawi.

Highlight: Cape Maclear.

Lowlight: The big cities – Lilongwe and Blantyre – where we only passed through.

Click on the photos below to see our full photo album of Malawi:

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Hiking the Mulanje Mountains

After lazying around Lake Malawi for a while, it was time to get active again! From Cape Maclear, we travelled on minibuses to Blantyre, a trip that took the whole day. After a night there, we continued to Mulanje – a little town surrounded by beautiful tea plantations with the Mulanje plateau in the back. Beautiful!

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We had planned a 3 day hike with a guide (which we regretted later as he was very weird and not necessary), and were joined by two other guys and a second guide. The first day would lead us up all the way to Chisepo hut – a really tough 6 h hike which was much harder than expected! After about 1 h, we got to swim and refresh in a waterfall, which was very nice.

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Later, we got some nice views hiking up the „skyline“ path, but I was struggling so much with the steep hike that I couldn’t enjoy them as much as usually. The hut was very very basic, but I was broken and slept alright anyways. I decided to skip the hike to the summit of Sapitwa though as I felt a bit sick and not up for the 5 h return hike, much of it being a steep climb. Mathijs and the guys made it up, and luckily they were above the clouds!

I, in the meanwhile, I was stuck in the fog at the hut and it only dispersed step by step once we descended towards Chambe hut later. We had planned to hike to a different hut first, but everyone was pretty tired and one guy had gotten sick (while I was feeling pretty good again). So Chambe hut it was!

In the end, it was a good choice, as Chambe hut is located beautifully, facing the steep wall of Chambe peak. The hut was still very basic, but a bit cozier than Chisepo hut.

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Next day, all we had to do was hike down! Quite a long way… but as always, going down was much easier for me than up. We got some more nice views along the way – finally without clouds again!

At the bottom of the plateau, we took a refreshing dip in the natural Likhubula Pools, before hiking further to see some tea plantations. The view of the tea with the mountain plateau in the background was so beautiful, it was almost kitschy!

With this, our time in Mulanje came to an end. Just like Cape Maclear, the area would have been so nice to explore further on a rental scooter – but at the moment there’s no such thing available yet… So we took a minibus back to Blantyre, from where we crossed the border into Tete, Mozambique next day. Malawi – you have been good to us and we wouldn’t mind coming back one day! 

Destination: Everywhere