Schlagwort-Archive: world trip

Chobe National Park

After our adventures in the Caprivi Strip in Namibia, we crossed the border to Botswana at Ngoma Bridge, where the transit route led us past Chobe NP directly to Kasane. Here, we spent 3 nights, stocking up and organising ourselves and doing some game drives in Chobe Riverfront. This part of Chobe national park is famous for its big herds of elephants and generally a big density of wildlife. At first, we were not so lucky, spotted only some impalas here and there, a lone elephant, some hippos rather far away and some buffaloes. But – we were happy to briefly see a honey badger and finally saw some mongoose as well.

We kept staring into the bushes, hoping for some cats… and were rewarded with 4 female lions at one point, one of them still a teenager, giving heads to the other cats. Cuteness overload!!!

We watched them for well over an hour, just about 3 m away from our car – and we had them just for ourselves for the first 30 min or so. After a while, they got up to drink, which was super special and nice to see as well.

Then, they disappeared into the high grass… Another great lion encounter in our pocket! On the way out of the park that day, we were suddenly surrounded by hundreds of elephants. The place was just crawling with elephants. They all walked to the river for driving and back… really cool!

But we also had many hours of just seeing nothing… it was weird. I think despite our close lion encounter and the ellies, we had expected a little bit more from Chobe Riverfront. On the 2nd day, even the guides from the safari cars started asking us if we had seen anything…so apparently they weren’t seeing anything either. Don’t get me wrong, we still saw lots of cool stuff in between – suddenly many giraffes, a big herd of impalas,… but there wasn’t this good constant supply of animals as we had it in Kruger national park in South Africa.

Hoping for better cat sightings, we made our way to Savuti afterwards. Savuti is reached only via treacherous sandy roads and deep in the national park. We were lucky to still get 2 nights booked at the most expensive (and at the same time very basic) campsite of our world trip so far. 100 USD/night! 😦 You pay for the location because the campsite itself is beyond basic.

Our drive-in went well despite some worries. In the morning we saw some hyenas with cubs right next to the Chobe Riverfront transit road. So much about being a „transit“ road!

The drive to Kachikau was quick and on asphalt, then it was suddenly deep sand! But we were prepared and all went well. Right after the Chobe park entrance, we saw some elephants… and after reaching Savuti campsite we parked our car only to find an elephant rubbing his butt against the tree next to it. Later, we had some more elephants coming by to eat from nearby trees. Pretty cool!

We spent 2 nights in Savuti, game driving around as much as possible. Unfortunately, we were not too lucky with our sightings, maybe because of the torrential rainstorm that came in just when we arrived. It did clear up again, but we always feel like there’s less animals to see when it’s been raining. They find water anywhere and don’t have to come to the waterholes, so these become rather boring and empty. To be honest, Savuti is probably hyped a bit too much as well – hyped as a „cat heaven“ and just in general that there’s lots of game around. We did enjoy our time, but there were lots of hours of driving around without seeing much.

We did have 2 great cat encounters though luckily. On our first morning, after hearing lions roar the whole night, we followed those roars and finally found their spot with some safari cars parked there already. Fortunately, these tour cars usually leave rather quickly, so soon we had the lions to ourselves! This time it was 3 females, 1 male aaaand the cutest little cub!! We came back multiple times in the course of the day to see what they were up to. Even though they didn’t move much, there were always some things going on and especially the cub made it very interesting, cute and fun to watch!!

Awwwww. Cuteness overload once again!

Our 2nd cat encounter was even more special. On our last day, we headed South to the cheetah plains. After staring into the high grass for hours, we had pretty much given up hope (just like for the elusive leopard which we searched for many hours), when suddenly 3 safari cars went past us in full speed. Woaaah. That could only mean something cool had been spotted surely!? We followed them and they led us straight to two cheetahs! Yay!! Finally, finally cheetahs. We were so lucky since we would have never spotted them ourselves and also wouldn’t have dared to get so close (it required some off-road driving which is usually prohibited). Haha, for once those tour cars were helpful!

And with that, our time in Chobe came to an end. Our last day was in many ways my favourite one – not just because of the cheetahs. We had quite a nice drive South to the gate with much more game than the previous days, a full waterhole for once again, and elephants here and there. Sweet! A good way to say goodbye, Chobe! 

Namibia – Summary & Pictures

People: The locals in Namibia were sooo friendly! It was such a nice change for us coming from Ethiopia. We felt a bit like in Aussie sometimes, with random people asking „how are you doing“ before getting to business. We met lots of different other travellers, mainly older couples or families – but the interactions were usually only short. Everyone travels more for themselves.

Food: We mainly cooked for ourselves, so I cannot comment on the local food. It was nice to be able to buy most things we are used to in the supermarkets and even some nice (actual) bread!

Weather: We travelled Namibia in March, which is at the edge of rainy season, but got mostly lucky. We did have a big thunderstorm on our first evening and some rain here and there, but most of the time the sun was out and shining for us! 🙂

Costs: We put our Namibia and Botswana budget together, since it is hard to separate. Botswana was a bit more expensive (mainly the campsites in the national parks), but not much more. On average, we spent just under 65€ per person, per day which already includes our rental car that was already over 70€/day, and the car insurance. So all in all not too bad I think!

Accommodation: Apart from our first 2 nights before getting the car, we only camped. Of course – we had already paid for our 4×4 with roof tent, so why wouldn’t we!? We had some very beautiful campsites, some basic ones, some shitty ones – a mix of everything. Cost ranged from 3€ to 25€ pp/night and the expensive ones were definitely not always the best!

Infrastructure: We had our own car, so can’t comment on busses and the-like. Roads were decent in Namibia, some tar, lots of good gravel, some sand in Sossusvlei. We didn’t get bored but it wasn’t too challenging – apart from the game parks in Caprivi probably.

Illnesses: We were happy & healthy!

Safety: No issues whatsoever.

Itinerary: We travelled the whole country, heading South first from Windhoek, to Fish River Canyon. Then we gradually worked our way up, hitting the usual tourist spots: Luderitz, Kolmanskop, Sossusvlei, Walvis Bay, Swakopmund, Spitzkoppe, Cape Cross, Twyfelfontein and Palmwag area and Etosha national park. We then drove up into the Caprivi Strip from where we crossed into Botswana for a few weeks. We came back to Grootfontein, and drove past the Waterberg Plateau back to Windhoek. I think we can safely say: we’ve seen it all! At least all that interested us.

Highlight: Sossusvlei, especially Dead Vlei.

Lowlight: Luderitz.

Click on the photos below to see our full photo album of Namibia: 

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Ethiopia – Summary & Pictures

People: Ouff. How not to make this one sound too bad!? Well, we did meet some nice people, for example owners of well-running local restaurants who are not dependant on tourists. Anyone who worked in transportation though, was an a… And everyone wanted something from us: money, pen, be our guide,… It was exhausting. Literally no friendly conversation would just remain friendly – it would always end in a request. Also, people lied to our face many times e.g. that there was water in the bathroom when there wasn’t (for days probably already). Unfortunately, Ethiopia has been the most exhausting country we have ever travelled, where we experienced the most hassle.

Food: It was a nice change after expensive South America, to go out for food every day three times a day again. But at the smaller restaurants there often wasn’t much choice, and after a while I was a bit sick of injera (sour pancake) and shiro (lentil paste) – the most common dish. Sometimes, they had mixed vegetarian platters which we quite enjoyed and the pasta was often quite tasty. For once, being a vegetarian was pretty easy!

Weather: We travelled Ethiopia in dry season, so it was sunny and nice. In the evenings you did need something long though, as it got quite chilly.

Costs: On average, we spent almost 30€/person/day which is below what we expected, but certainly above what we could have spent. But as travelling Ethiopia was quite exhausting, we ended up getting better accommodation over the course of the weeks and booked quite some flights instead of enduring more long bus trips. Also, anything touristy like entrance fees or the Danakil tour cost a lot more than you would expect from an otherwise cheap country like Ethiopia.

Accommodation: We stayed in simple double rooms, mostly with our own bath room, for very little money. Finally, a country like that again! It was basic though, internet a struggle, water not always available etc.

Infrastructure: Busses were very old, uncomfortable and got filled to the max. Same as minibuses. As soon as you entered the bus station, you would get stormed at by guys who would pull you into their van and take the backpack off your shoulders. It was very exhausting. The bus trips took long even for short distances and since people don’t shower much at all and some people throw up, the smell was often bad. We also took some flights, to avoid some of such bus rides.

Illnesses: We both had some stomach issues at one point – I got it really bad for the first time. But I guess that’s normal in Ethiopia.

Safety: In Dire Dawa and Harar, I didn’t feel so safe with many weird characters hanging around in the streets. The rest of the country was no issue.

Itinerary: We travelled along the Historical Circuit in the North, clockwise: Addis – Bahir Dar – Gondar – Simien Mountains – Axum – Tigray – Danakil Depression – Lalibela. We then added a complicated detour to Harar, from Lalibela back to Bahir Dar by bus, then a flight to Addis, another one to Dire Dawa, and a minibus to Harar. Not sure it was worth the effort.

Highlight: Danakil Depression.

Lowlight: The people, our visa situation and Dire Dawa/Harar.

Click on the photos below to see our full photo album of Ethiopia:

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