Schlagwort-Archive: world trip

Pidurangala vs. Sigiriya (Lion’s Rock)

As so many other backpackers, I was wondering about whether to visit the actual Lion’s Rock when in Sigiriya, or the cheaper alternative – Pidurangala. While Pidurangala is much cheaper (500 rupees vs. 4.650 rupees), it’s obviously not „the real deal“ and doesn’t showcase any ruins like Sigiriya does. So I was torn! In the end, I decided to visit both – simply not to miss out on anything.

I first climbed Pidurangala for sunset with Maddie and Leah. And it was quite a climb! Definitely more so than Sigiriya, although if you’re afraid of heights, Pidurangala will be easier and you should definitely skip Lion’s Rock. The top is really nice and flat-ish with lots of space for all the tourists and not too crowded. Immediately after the last tough climb, you suddenly have an absolutely stunning view over the area and Lion’s Rock! We found some nice spots to take pics and chill out for a bit, taking in the amazing landscape while waiting for the sun to set. I had to keep an eye out for the cheeky monkeys though which tried to steal my crackers!

 

Once the sun was almost down, everyone was starting to rush downwards, not wanting to be stuck at the climb in the dark. Another people jam! But it worked out ok.

Next morning it was time for Lion’s Rock. In order to get ahead of the masses, we stood in line at the ticket counter at 6.50 am and got our tickets quickly after it opened at 7 am. We then hurried up a bit and climbed the rock rather quickly with some photo stops along the way. It’s cool how the staircases are built into/onto the rock but like I said – nothing for people afraid of heights! Also, there’s lots of wasp nests on the rock face and signs are warning of wasp attacks. Luckily we didn’t experience anything like that! Instead we got to the top rather quickly – before us there was only one couple and we had the top to the 4 of us for the next 20 min or so!

 

Perfect to take some pictures without other people and to enjoy the once again incredible views peacefully before the selfie sticks and shouting Russians arrived. I really liked the ruins at the top as well, although not too much is left of the ancient city. It made the top of the rock more special and different to any other rocky mountain that you might have climbed.

 

All in all I would recommend the following: If you have time, climb both rocks for different experiences. If you only have time for one, do Lion’s Rock. It is better! Yes it’s expensive, so if you’re on a shoestring, just go for Pidurangala. Although you might kick yourself later in life 😉 After all, going to Sri Lanka and not seeing Lion’s Rock is a bit like going to Peru and not seeing Machu Picchu – may it be as expensive as it is…

Visiting the Dambulla cave temples

Next day, we actually went back to Dambulla without luggage to see the cave temples. They’re located a little outside the city, so it was a bit of a walk from the bus station. You enter the site at the Golden Temple, which contains a big golden stupa and a kitschy Buddhism Museum (which we didn’t visit). It was kind of special to see from the outside though!

The walk up to the caves was hot and leading over many (you might guess it) steps! The annoying part is that you actually need to walk down a bit again to the ticket office at a certain point, and then up again. They really could have placed the ticket counter at a more convenient spot!

The caves themselves were actually prettier than I imagined. I guess more worth the price than the Temple of the Tooth would have been! I really liked the paintings on the rock ceilings of the caves and some of the buddhas were looking quite cool. It’s just funny how they piled them all into these caves! It’s also cool how the temple itself is built into the rock. And the views from up here were really nice!! My final verdict: If you’ve got time and are not on absolute shoestring budget – check out these caves!

 

Trekking in Ella – and climbing Adam’s Peak

After the safari in Yala national park, I packed up my stuff in Tissa and wanted to hop on a bus to Wellawaya to change there for Ella. Unfortunately, the next bus to Wellawaya was only going to be 2h later – but there was an option to take an (expensive) tuk tuk to Pannegawmuna junction where a direct bus to Ella was gonna pass by soon. I didn’t fancy either option but in the end went to the junction… to be picked up by yet the fullest bus I had experienced in Sri Lanka. It was a very exhausting journey during which I had to stand the entire 2.5h. My arm muscles were hurting from constantly holding on really hard by the time we reached Ella and I must have been the most excited person getting off that bus. After another tuk tuk ride, I reached my hostel high up on a hill with great views (but a little too remote maybe). Luckily I met some people in the hostel and we immediately buddied up to walk into town for dinner and share a tuk tuk back up.

I only had one full day in Ella, so next day was busy! After breakfast, Maddie who I had met in the hostel and I headed out to climb Ella Rock. It looks easier than it is! First of all, finding the correct trail in a network of trails running up the mountain is tricky. We got lost a couple of times before we were on the right track. Then it got quite exhausting, with the trail leading up the mountain steeply for longer than we had anticipated. But when we arrived, it was all worth it – the views are simply stunning!!

We took loads of pictures, then headed down a different route to Ella town, following the GPS and Maps.Me. This was an adventurous trail, sometimes leading through grass higher than we were tall! We finally arrived back in town for a lunch snack and drink, before I continued my trekking day with Little Adam’s Peak which is muuuuch easier than Ella Rock but with nevertheless amazing views! 360° views – something you don’t get on Ella Rock.

I then continued to the Nine Arch Bridge, in fact just a railway bridge – but in a pretty setting. I found a cafe with the perfect view of the bridge and sat there with a cold coke, waiting for the train to pass to get the typical shot. It was nice – but in the end just a bridge. If you don’t have enough time for all 3 treks I did – this is the one to skip. There are also many pretty waterfalls in the area, caves, temples, tea plantations,… If I had more time, I really could have imagined staying longer in Ella.

But…I had to keep going to manage to see all the places I wanted to see!

So next morning, I went to the train station with Maddie, Leah and Jenny who I had met in my hostel. We wanted to take the train to Hatton – along the very much recommended train route Ella – Kandy. Let me tell you: While the train is overcrowded when starting from Kandy, we got perfect 2nd class seats starting from Ella. You just need to be a bit lucky as in where the nearest door is when the train stops in Ella. We were the first ones to jump onto an almost empty train and quickly took some good seats. If you can – sit on the right: it gets the better views most of the way!

We also went to stand in the open doors for a while, taking many nice pictures. The scenery was simply amazing for most of the time: mountains, rolling hills and tea plantations – with the train riding right through all of it! I was doubtful about how good this train journey was gonna be since you hear so much about it that your expectations are already set high. But, it didn’t disappoint! On contrary – one of my highlights of Sri Lanka to date.

In Hatton we got off the train and onto a bus bringing us in 2h to the little village of Dalhousie where you stay to start the trek up Adam’s Peak next day. If you can afford it, take a tuk tuk instead of the bus with some photo stops along the way, as the scenery is incredible!! Unfortunately I had to stand both ways, so couldn’t take any pictures.

It was an early night and a super early morning then for us to climb up Adam’s Peak which is a sacred place for Sri Lankans who try to climb it at least once in their life and bring some offerings to the temple at top. More and more tourists join in the fun of climbing the 5.200 steps up the 2.243 m high mountain. Yes, it’s all steps up there! And they’re all of different heights as well which doesn’t make it any easier. In short: it’s an exhausting climb! When you think you’re almost there, there’s another flight of stairs and another one and… For the last bit we were stuck in a people jam and only moved one step at a time. So budget that into your trekking time as you can’t pass by. Annoyingly this was also the part of the mountain where it got really cold – an icy wind was blowing and we were shivering, already wearing all the clothes we had. On the top, there were masses of people everywhere! It was crazy and reminded me of that evening in Hanoi when we got stuck in the crowds. Fortunately again no-one panicked. All the good spots to see the sunrise were already taken so I took my pictures holding my camera up high and kind of leaning over the heads of people, somehow trying to aim and hold the camera straight. Oh well – you can see prettier sunrises on mountain tops where you’ll be all by yourself in Austria!

Going down was (as usually for me) much more fun – Leah and I ended up running down all the way! And of course snapping some pics along the way. After a well deserved breakfast, we took an overcrowded bus back to Hatton where we just managed to jump onto the train to Kandy. A looong day – we definitely slept really well that night!