Schlagwort-Archive: world trip

Vava’u – snorkelling and road trip

When we researched flights and ferry connections about 2 weeks ago in Fiji, we had a bit of a shock moment, discovering that flights were fully booked and ferry schedules unreliable/not available. It looked as if we had to spend all our time on just Ha’apai OR Vava’u whereas I had always wanted to see both island groups. In the end, we decided to chance it and assume we could make it somehow from Ha’apai to Vava’u, booked our flight out of Vava’u and took the ferry to Ha’apai. If anything went wrong, we would have been stuck in Ha’apai…but well. Sometimes you gotta risk things like this and it did work out, although it almost went wrong when one of the ferries broke down! To our surprise, they efficiently (not very South Pacifican of them…Haha) replaced the broken slow ferry with two fast ferries – and off we were to Neiafu, the main town of Vava’u.

We only had two full days for Vava’u, so decided to stay in Neiafu. One day, we rented a car and drove around the main island. It’s not too big, so by the end of the day we had driven into pretty much every corner that our 2WD car would take us. Unfortunately, the weather was not that great and sometimes rainy, but we tried to make the best of it. In all honesty, there are not too many wow-ing sights on the island. One of the best ones was Mt Talau, a short, steep climb up the highest point awarded us with amazing views in all directions! In fact, we liked it so much that we came back a 2nd time in the late afternoon when the clouds had cleared a little more.

Another really nice spot was a viewpoint on the North coast, close to the airport. We just followed some signs and in the end walked for 1km when the road got too bad. And were surprised to land ourselves at this awesome viewpoint! We were even lucky to be able to watch some whales swimming around in the bay below us.

The rest of the main island was not that interesting and after Ha’apai, we were quite disappointed by the beaches Vava’u had to offer. Maybe there are better ones on the outer islands, but from what we’ve seen during our road trip (and the boat trip next day), I’m not sure.

The snorkelling trip next day brought us through the little bays and between many smaller islands of Vava’u. Unfortunately the weather was still mostly grey and cool, so that we really appreciated the brief moments of sunshine in between, in which the waters glittered in a beautiful turquoise. The maze of islands and bays is definitely beautiful, but Marovo Lagoon is similar – and better, we thought.

During the tour, we first visited Port Mourelle, a pretty bay with turquoise water, but the snorkelling was boring. Dead coral.

The next spot was Swallow’s Cave which was a cool experience to snorkel in: the water deep blue and very clear and thousands of small fish which you could free dive through! There were also some divers at the bottom of the cave which we watched for a bit. Just nearby, there was another little cave with a small swim through, to make up for Mariner’s Cave I suppose (we couldn’t find a tour going there unfortunately).

By the time we reached the last snorkelling spot, Japanese Gardens, we were freezing like crazy which was too bad since it was quite pretty. But the sun was hiding behind the clouds, the wind had picked up and the water temperatures are not very high in Tonga anyways. So we kept the snorkelling short and were looking forward to our hot shower at our guesthouse!

All in all, we were glad that we spent much more time in Ha’apai than Vava’u since it was so much nicer there. If we had had any more time in Vava’u, we probably would have gone to Ofu Island or so for a day or two, but again, it didn’t look spectacular to me. The snorkelling tour was expensive for what it was, and so was the car rental. It’s sometimes difficult to find out beforehand in the South Pacific, if places are really worth it and what there is to see and do… So I guess it was good we went to Vava’u to see for ourselves, but if we’d have to recommend one of the two island groups, our vote would clearly go to Ha’apai!

Whales and beach time in Ha’apai

It was ferry time again! The slow ferry took us in 12h overnight from Nuku’alofa to Ha’apai – a journey much more comfortable than on our beloved MV Anjeanette in the Solomons, but therefore also a little less exciting and adventurous. The coolest part was spotting some whales from the deck of the ferry in the morning hours before we arrived in Pangai, the main town (village) of Ha’apai.

We spent one day and night here, renting bicycles and cycling the whole length of Lifuka and Foa islands. These two islands are connected by a bridge, the trip is about 14km one way and at the end of it, there’s a pretty beach to chill and snorkel (whereas the snorkelling in the sheltered area was not that great and out further there was a ripping current). But a very pretty spot for a afternoon!

Next day, we got picked up by Taiana’s Resort and transferred by boat to their place on Uoleva where we spent the next 5 nights camping directly on this amazing beach:

Awesome, right? So for the next few days, it was mainly about beaches and chilling. There was not much else to do! Once, we walked around the whole island which takes about 3-4h and offers loads and loads of beautiful views.

For the rest, we swam, read, enjoyed the sun and chatted with all the other travellers (the place was fully booked!). Aaaaand we went snorkelling with whales, twice! In Tonga, every year around June-September you can have the chance to see humpback whales! The mothers come with their calves into the sheltered bays where they can nurse them in peace. Tonga is one of the only places in the world where you can not just go whale watching, but you can actually get into the water and snorkel with these amazing creatures!

First time we went out, we barely got our wetsuits on and were already told to get ready to jump into the water! The first mother and calf were especially relaxed and let us come really close. We were able to stay and swim with them for about an hour, with the little one coming very close at times, playing with us! We were speechless – they were just soooo cute and beautiful!

We had a couple of other good encounters after that – one ended with the mother and calf breaching just metres away from us! One moment we were watching them underwater and the next one they were jumping up right next to us. Super cool!! The impact and loud sound the mother’s breaching made, was crazy!

All in all, we had two awesome whale watching days with Taiana’s Resort. They’re not only much cheaper than other companies, the groups are smaller so you get more time in the water with the whales and the money goes to a local family instead of Aussies or Kiwis who run most other whale watching tours. From Uoleva, we went back to Pangai for a night to catch the fast ferry next afternoon to Vava’u since the slow ferry was broken…

One week in Fiji – Viti Levu

We were looking forward to Fiji to get a break from the rather difficult travelling in the Solomon Islands and Vanuatu. Finally there were cheap busses available, actual working Wi-Fi in the hostels and some good Indian food. Yummy!

The first night we stayed in Nadi after arriving late from Port Vila, but didn’t really get to see the city. We only stopped by a medical clinic the next day to get Mathijs‘ wound finally checked by a doctor. The clinic was rather simple – not as shocking as Nepal back then with my dad, but not very clean or modern. Somehow we had thought Fiji was more developed already. Anyways, all the equipment was sterile and new, so good enough!

We then hopped on a bus all the way to Suva, which took 4.5 h on a modern, air-con service. In Suva we treated ourselves to some delicious Indian food and then took yet another bus to get to the Colo-i-Suva Eco Lodge next to the rain forest park with the same name. It’s a nice lodge with a pretty setting for breakfast and you wake up to the sound of birds. The rain-forest park was a bit odd on the other hand. No-one had informed us that you had to walk about 2 km on a gravel road to get to the trails. Mathijs didn’t join in the end due to his foot. The trails were odd and not marked at all. I followed the main trail until it brought me back to the gravel road – but never really knew where I was headed. There are some pretty little waterfalls and pools you can swim in – with groups of locals jumping from high rocks. It was nice to follow the trail along the river for a bit – but I always felt like I was walking without a „purpose“ – like a point you want to reach. As I was by myself and didn’t know about the swimming options anyways, I didn’t stay too long. Well – when the trail was finished, I just walked back! There were some smaller trails along the way but they were quite overgrown, full of spider webs and without knowing where they would bring me, I didn’t feel in the mood to fight my way through the jungle. Lol. That being said, if you’re coming by car and want a nice dip in some pools, slide down a waterfall etc, then this park is for sure a nice stop along the way!

After we lost about 4 h of our day to Tongan travel planning (and still have to hope it all works out in the end), we made our way to Suva, had a small lunch snack and then walked around the city for a bit. Our verdict: Not much to see but it’s very green and so far the nicest city we’ve seen in the South Pacific!

Another 1.5 h bus ride brought us to Pacific Harbour where we spent lots of time relaxing and planning our time in Tonga and French Polynesia. Booking the air pass for French Polynesia took us about 6 h and cost us many nerves… but it’s done!! And that’s the most important.

The original reason to come to Pacific Harbour though, was to go shark diving! Unfortunately Mathijs couldn’t join due to his wound, so I did 2 dives by myself. What an experience!! I expected lots of sharks but thought that most would be smaller reef sharks. Nope! At times there were 10 massive bull sharks circling around the feeding station!! Plus some huge nurse sharks and the really cool lemon sharks. In addition there were the usual reef sharks of course, but these were so small in comparison that I didn’t even pay much attention to them. But seeing those bulls was freaking awesome!!! It was quite a show dive though of course. The sharks are being fed, and you have to kneel behind a wall of dead coral and just watch. It’s cool to have experienced it, but I don’t need to do it again. I prefer „real“ dives.

We then made our way to the Beachouse accommodation at Coral Coast for a night. The location was beautiful!! Lots of palm trees, a white sand beach and clear water, looking very inviting. We had some good relaxing time here. Originally I had wanted to go snorkelling, but there was a cold wind for most of our time there, so we were in long sleeves and not really tempted to go for a swim. Ok, after all it is winter on Fiji!

From the Beachouse, we took a minibus back to Nadi, where we just spent one more (short) night before our flight to the next South Pacific nation: Tonga! Because our time in Fiji was so short, I won’t do the usual country summary – but here are some more pictures for those interested: Fiji Pictures