Schlagwort-Archive: market

Bahir Dar and the monasteries of Lake Tana

Bahir Dar was a welcome change to Addis! After dealing with the taxi mafia at the airport, we were welcomed by streets lined with palm trees and lots of nice little cafes. It was still very busy on the street of course, but it had a more relaxed vibe.

On our first afternoon, we just walked around town a bit and discovered the colourful local market which was really really nice. After a while, Mathijs didn’t feel too shy about taking photos anymore, and there were just so many great subjects and scenes to photograph!

Later, we took a minivan to the Nile Bridge to see if we could spot some hippos. We did see two, but they were mainly under water and far away.

Next morning, we woke up very early to take the public ferry to the Zeghe peninsular. You can go on lots of tours to see the colourful monasteries of Laka Tana, but we always prefer to do things on our own. Ferry might be a bit of an exaggeration for the small boat, but it departed on time and the ride was beautiful and peaceful in the morning light.

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At Zege, we were welcomed by some chanting coming from the monastery Ura Kidane Meret. So we quickly walked up, past the still empty souvenir stalls to the ticket office which had to be opened up for us. Tours usually arrive here 1-2 h later only, so no one had expected tourists yet and we arrived to this amazing atmosphere. A group of men who were dressed as if they had climbed out of a history book were playing old musical instruments and chanting. It felt mystical and as if we were experiencing this very old culture.

It was special because there were no other tourists yet and it seemed like something they just did every morning, but that we were able to be part of that day. The paintings in the monastery were beautiful and nicer than expected, so we spent quite some time here – listening to the men and walking around taking pictures.

Later, we walked on to another monastery – Azwa Maryam – which was nice too and had some elaborate cruel paintings. Overall, it was quite similar to the first monastery though, and we imagine most other monasteries around the lake to look alike (unless you have a special interest in this area), hence concluded that seeing two of them would be enough for us! We were lucky to catch the same ferry on its way back to Bahir Dar and see some locals in their photogenic boats.

We still had some time left, so went back to our favourite market once again for another walk around and lots of pictures. This is more the kind of markets we like, compared to Addis‘ Merkato.

From Bahir Dar, we took a minivan to Gondar – a drive full of hassles and attempted tourist rip-offs…

Time for Football & Markets in Bac Ha

27.01.-28.01.2018 Bac Ha

After the trekking in Sapa I would have loved to stay another day or two, do some more trekking or rent a scooter to drive around. However, weather had turned bad over night just like projected and there were no views at all. Thick fog lay on the roads of Sapa. So I took a bus to Lao Cai and changed there for Bac Ha. The total bus journey took me about 3.5 h and most of it was rather boring. About 10-20 km from Bac Ha, there were some nice views and I briefly considered renting a scooter anyways once I’d arrived.

I’d forgotten about the soccer though! Vietnam was playing in the U23 Asia Cup and doing very well for the first time, ever. Even though it was just U23, the whole country was watching every match excitedly. So when we drove into town, there were flags hanging everywhere and a public viewing area was set up next to my hotel. So of course I had to go watch! I quickly met some overexcited local girls who didn’t speak any English but put me into a Vietnam t-shirt and put some flags on my face. So for the next couple of hours I was cheering for Vietnam, learning Vietnamese football songs, getting my hair braided and playing with local kids running around. What surprised me was the relaxed atmosphere. No one was booing when the other team scored or getting angry with the referee. Also, no one was drinking any alcohol. And everyone just took care of the little kids running around, playing with them or taking them on the shoulders in between. And whenever a Vietnamese player made good ball contact, the crowd would cheer loudly. Great atmosphere! Unfortunately the Vietnamese team lost, otherwise I’m sure there would have been a big party. Again, remember this is the U23 team I’m talking about – in Europe we wouldn’t even watch these matches…

But – I hadn’t come to Bac Ha for the football of course, but for the Sunday market! Already Saturday night there was some dancing and singing on the main market square, which luckily I had heard about from some girls from my hostel.

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Sunday morning then started early for me: I woke up at 6am and was at the market at 6.30 before any other tourists. To be fair, the market was in full swing only a couple of hours later, but it was still nice to walk around before most other tourists and tour groups arrived. Each Sunday, locals from different ethnic villages come to this market to sell their goods, wearing colourful traditional outfits. I always enjoy markets, but the traditional clothes, especially from the Flower Hmong, gave it a nice colourful feel in addition to the usual market hustle and bustle.

I really enjoyed walking around and taking pictures. I guess I could have taken even better ones, but I don’t really feel like flashing into people’s faces (something that many other tourists don’t have an issue with). There were 3 main sections of the market: the vegetables were spread out on the main market square, behind it was a covered section mainly aimed at tourists (souvenirs) and again behind that was the animal market which can seem a bit sad to watch. We always have to remind ourselves that in Europe we’re generally treating animals even worse.

After a couple of hours of walking around, I went for late breakfast, packed up my things in the hostel and then hopped onto a direct bus to Hanoi at 12.30pm. The rest of the day was spent on the last sleeper bus (yay!) of my Vietnam trip, urgently awaiting a toilet stop…