When looking into off-the-beaten-track places to visit in Japan, I quickly came across the cute little temple town called Koya-san. Here you’ll find around 50 temples where you can stay overnight as a visitor, and one of Japan’s most sacred and oldest cemeteries – the main reason for my visit. To get to Koya-san, I took the train from Kyoto to Gokurakubashi, from where you can either take a cable car up the mountain or hike for about an hour. Not too bad at all, so of course I chose to do so. The trail was nothing special but it saved me quite some money.

In Koya-san I right away made my way to the cemetery and explored it for a few hours, taking lots and lots of photos. The old gravestones that are overgrown with moss and the tall trees create a very special atmosphere. Photographers‘ paradise!

I had booked a night in a temple which included dinner and breakfast according to the rules of the monastery – vegetarian monk’s cuisine. This cuisine is based on the „rule of five“: five elements, five colors (green, yellow, red, black, and white), five flavors (sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami), and five cooking methods (raw, stewed, boiled, roasted, and steamed) need to be used.

A very special experience! I loved all the cute little dishes and overall it was very filling and a delicious meal. My room in the temple was nicer than expected, with a thicker than usual for Japan mattress on the floor, a table and heater. For showering, I was able to use the onsen as there were no restrictions on tattoos as this was the only option to take a shower. 

Next day, I watched the monks at a morning fire ritual, had breakfast, and explored the town and cemetery a bit more. Then it was time to return to Kyoto, hiking back down the mountain and taking the train back to city life.