Schlagwort-Archive: Brazil

Rio de Janeiro & Sao Paulo – City time

We landed in Rio after a short flight from Florianopolis. A Uber dropped us at our AirBnB where we realized that we would only have about 1.5 sunny days in Rio (out of our 3.5 days). So no time to lose – on to the Sugarloaf mountain! There’s 2 cable cars that take you up first to a smaller hill, from where you already have great views, and then further to the top of the rocky mountain.

The views in all directions were really beautiful – we could see many beaches such as Copacabana and Ipanema, the center of Rio and the surrounding other mountains and hills, including Corvocado with the famous statue of Christ the Redeemer.

What was not a great, was the light we got… basically the view back to Christ the Redeemer and over the city were completely against the sun! Too bad… We also quickly realized that we had made the wrong decision by buying tickets for the train up Corvocado for next morning. Afternoon would have been much better, like this we would have the same light issue again for taking photos. Too bad, too bad… That being said, Sugarloaf was still really nice and well worth the visit. We took our time here, waiting until the sun went down a bit more, and visited all viewpoints about three times. Lol.

As mentioned, next day we woke up early and took the train up to Corvocado to see Christ the Redeemer and more views over the city and bays. We got a bit unlucky with the weather though (in addition to the light), as clouds started to come in suddenly and we almost didn’t have any view at first! Fortunately, it got better again and the clouds moved a bit during our stay up there. But still… the sun was just in the completely wrong spot for any decent photos.

Later, we made our way to the famous beach of Copacabana which was covered with hundreds of people. We walked along the beach, seeing no need to go swimming among the masses. Then we visited Copacabana fort, which was by itself nothing special, but offered good views over Copacabana and some smaller beaches on the other side.

We continued our walk to Ponta do Aproador, a rocky viewpoint at the one end of Ipanema beach and then walked along Ipanema for quite a bit too. It was just as busy as Copacabana, but in our opinion offered better views with the mountain Dois Irmãos at the end of it.

After some beach time, we went on a shopping mission: we were still missing some camping gear that had been stolen in Buenos Aires, so we unsuccessfully visited one smaller store and then Decathlon, where we found quite some stuff – having to accept that the quality will be lower than what we had before…

Next day, we woke up to grey weather (as predicted) and decided to see the city center a bit. We first went to the Museum of Tomorrow – only to see it from the outside since it’s closed Mondays. Then we passed by the Theater and the white arches of Lapa.

We continued to the famous staircase Escadaria Selarón, which is a staircase full of colourful tiles created by an artist. Full of tiles…and full of tourists! In some parts, you couldn’t even see the stairs anymore because there were so many people. Lol. If you climbed up higher, there were less people though, so that’s what we did!

From the top of the stairs, we continued up the hills until we found a good viewpoint over the city. We had wanted to visit Parque das Ruinas, but found out it was closed (Mondays?), so the other viewpoint had to do.

On our last day, weather was even worse, so we opted to go back to the Museum of Tomorrow for an inside visit this time. Honestly, it was good it was free on Tuesdays, since we didn’t find it that special. The museum aims to make you aware of the humans‘ influence on planet Earth, but for us there was not much new information.

In a short dry period, we managed to visit Parque Lage still – which was nicer than expected with some cool views! It didn’t need much time to be visited though, so later we were off to some more shopping at Decathlon. At least, now we’re done with it and can leave this whole shitty story behind us I hope.

We left Rio for Ilha Grande and later on Paraty, from where – as a last stop – we continued to Sao Paulo.

When we arrived in Sao Paulo, we were straight away fascinated by the city’s pure ugliness. Seriously, we have never seen such an ugly city! Grey, ugly buildings wherever you looked. We are also calling it „city of the homeless“ as we have never ever seen that many people living on the streets. It was crazy!

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We had two full days for the city, and started our exploration next day with little hopes to see anything remotely pretty. And right we were! We walked and uber-ed our way through the central areas, checked out a couple of churches and squares, but it was nothing to write home about.

The best part was still Liberdade, the Asian neighborhood, where they at least hang some lanterns in the street and some houses had Asian roofs. Here we got some nice noodles, which was probably our highlight of Sao Paulo.

Next day, we went to see Batman’s Alley – a street full of really cool graffiti. Ok, actually this might have been our one and only highlight of this ugly city! So, if you have to spend time in Sao Paulo, go see the graffiti and have food at Liberdade, spend the rest of the time in your hotel room. You won’t be missing out…

And with this lowlight of our whole time in South America, we said goodbye to the American continent and started our flight marathon across the ocean: Sao Paulo – Lisbon – Madrid – Addis Abeba. On to new adventures!

Ilha Santa Catarina & Ilha Grande

While in Brazil, we picked two islands to visit: Ilha Santa Catarina and Ilha Grande. We first arrived in Florianopolis on Ilha Santa Catarina after a long night bus ride from the Iguazu Falls. The bus ride was a bit odd. At one point, the bus got stopped in the middle of nowhere and some heavily armed police came in and made straight for one specific guy. Luckily, he didn’t make a drama or react in a stupid way, as a battle on the bus would have been a bit scary! They searched his whole stuff and the guy next to him, apparently couldn’t find anything and left again. Weird…and a bit scary. Was that guy still potentially dangerous but they had to let him go since they didn’t find any proof? Or was it a false tip the police received and the guy totally innocent. Things we’ll never know… Later at an actual stop, a lady came in with her husband and claimed we were sitting on her seats. Well, we showed her our tickets – we were right! Seems like the bus company sold those seats twice, but for some reason the lady got mad at us for this. Lol. Of course we just stayed seated – let her talk to the driver and sort this out! Funnily enough, the whole situation ended with us being upgraded to 1st class and giving our seats to her. Why they did not move her, I don’t understand – but we were certainly not going to complain about our awesome upgrade!

From Florianopolis, we took a local bus to the smaller town Barra da Lagoa where we had booked our accommodation for the next few nights. Barra’s beach is about 8 km long and only the first part was rather crowded. The good thing is, most people are lazy – so walking just a little bit further you will have an amazing beach all to yourself. There’s also some natural pools a short walk from town, but I found these quite disappointing: overrun and it wasn’t even real pools…

 

One afternoon, we took a hike to Praia da Galheta which turned out much hotter than expected. We took quite some water but in all honesty, it was just too freaking hot for a hike! The beach was quite pretty when we arrived, however not as deserted as we had expected. I guess quite some people walk here from Praia Mole which can be accessed by car, and was even busier. We cooled off in the ocean, relaxed a bit, walked further to Praia Mole and then took a bus back into Barra da Lagoa. It’s definitely a nice hike to do if the sun is not burning down as much as it was when we visited.

 

The rest of our time on Ilha Santa Catarina was spent mainly relaxing on Barra’s beach. We had originally wanted to do more hikes on the island, but transportation by bus takes quite long with many changes and weather was just too hot the whole time. Don’t get me wrong, it was great for a beach vacation, but just not so much for any extended hikes…

From Florianopolis we took a flight to Rio for a couple of days, from where we afterwards made our way to Ilha Grande. Even though (or maybe because?) we booked a direct shuttle, it took us forever to reach the island. We definitely prefer going on our own vs. organized tourist shuttles… Weather had been bad in Rio the last 2 days and the outlook for Ilha Grande was not great so we got a bit worried about our beach time. We immediately fell in love with Ilha Grande though: an island without streets, a relaxed little town with all the main accommodation. Even though it was high season, it didn’t feel overrun but had its charm.

 

Our first day was rather grey, so we only managed some shorter walks when it at least dried up a little. First, we hiked past some smaller beaches and not so pretty ruins up to a waterfall which was surprisingly nice! Luckily we had brought our swimsuits as it was perfectly refreshing!

 

Later, we hiked to Playa do Abraazinho which was a bit further than expected and you had to walk in the water quite a bit since it was high tide. Because of that, unfortunately the beaches were almost gone, just very narrow strips of sand were left with way too many tourists on them.

Next day, we woke up to blue skies. Nice surprise! So we decided to take on the most popular hike – which would lead us past a couple of pretty beaches all the way to famous Lopes Mendes beach. It was a sweaty hike in the heat with lots of humidity, but nice because you had some places to cool off along the way. I really liked Palmas beach, probably my favourite of the day! Next was Pouso beach – between this beach and the village of Abraao there are regular shuttle boats and at the end of the day we opted to take one of these back instead of hiking back all the way.

 

Just about 20 min further from Pouso is Lopes Mendes beach, a beach that in our opinion is a bit over-hyped. It’s definitely a nice beach, but as mentioned, I preferred Palmas beach. Also, on this side of the island there were strong waves and currents, whereas the other side was nicely protected and calm.

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On our last day in Ilha Grande, we decided to take on Pico do Papagaio, the Parrot Mountain, the highest peak of the island. Even though we started reasonably early, it was already super hot and after only about 15 min we were both soaked in sweat! It ended up being the sweatiest hike I’ve ever done. Luckily we took enough water. Unluckily, while we came closer to the top, more and more clouds came in so that we didn’t see anything at all at first. We were literally stuck in the clouds!

 

Super annoying after such an exhausting hike! We decided to eat our lunch and wait around for a bit. Fortunately, some of the clouds disappeared for a bit so that we got some views at least! The views were nice, but not the most amazing, so I’m not sure I would do this hike again.

 

After enjoying the local beer festival at night, we took a ferry to Angra dos Reis next day, and a bus further to Paraty – this time by ourselves, no package tour.

Iguazu Falls – Argentina & Brazil

The Iguazu Falls are of course a highlight we didn’t want to miss out on, so we planned our route into Brazil to go via these waterfalls. On Argentinian side, Puerto Iguazu is the town you stay at. From here, we took and early morning bus 30 min to the national park where the falls are located. It was good we arrived early and accidentally chose our favourite trail – the lower circuit trail – as a first thing to do. Luckily we did, because most groups went elsewhere first and we had the trail pretty much to ourselves, with some really pretty first viewpoints!

The Iguazu Falls are, as the name already suggests, a series of many, many waterfalls that form one huge fall together. The trail led us to some points with a great view overall, but also closer to some of the falls.

Although I must have seen hundreds of pics of the Iguazu Falls before in my life, I was still captivated. The falls are even better and more impressive in real life than on any pictures!

Later, we continued on the upper circuit where there were of course more people now, but it was still ok and less busy than expected. On this trail, you got to see the falls more from the top, which was also nice, but not quite as spectacular as on the lower circuit.

Last but not least, we took the train to Devil’s Throat, where you get very close to the most impressive part of the falls. Here, you were getting sprayed by the water masses splashing down. It was impressive to see nature’s force from so close by.

Unfortunately, here we had to fight our way through masses of people and stand in line for photos. Oh well, at least the rest of the day had been less busy than expected and really, really cool.

We said goodbye to the falls, knowing we would see them again next day – from the Brazilian side. We packed up and took a bus directly to the falls, where we could lock up our big backpacks before taking the park’s shuttle bus the last bit. We got off a little before the last stop, to be able to follow a scenic walk along the river – getting closer and closer to the falls, with lots of amazing views. That day we had left much later, so unfortunately there were way more people, more fighting for good photo spots and even standing in line at some spots.

Oh well, it was all worth it! At the end of the walk, there’s a board walk across the water which brings you really close to the falls. Too many people and lots of spray again, but beautiful!

There’s also a watchtower which you can access by elevator and provides some more good views over the falls.

By the end, we had really seen the falls from any and every corner and viewpoint possible it seemed – so we were ok to leave, pick up our backpacks, take the bus to the city of Foz do Iguazu, then another bus to the big bus terminal… and then hop on the night bus to Florianopolis! The Brazil adventure had officially started.