Schlagwort-Archive: backpacking

Israel & Palestine – Summary & Pictures

People: Other travellers were a colourful mix of deeply religious people, volunteers, students and other backpackers (not as many as expected). I did not always meet cool people to hang out with, so spent a lot of time by myself in Israel (which I’m totally fine with nowadays – my company is awesome! Lol). The locals I met every day in Israel were rather distant. Polite, but not openly welcoming, and often a bit impatient. The constant presence of security personnel is a bit unnerving if you’re not used to it too. In Palestine, people were sooo happy to see me, a tourist, visiting their cities. I heard „welcome to Palestine“ everywhere, was offered dates and bread to taste and people wanted me to take pictures of them. That being said, I do have some good friends in Israel, who were hosting me just as openly. Maybe it takes some more time for people from Israel to open up, but once you’re their friend, they will be very warm and helpful…? At least that would be my experience.

Food: I did not eat out a lot during my 2,5 weeks in Israel and Palestine due to high prices. I did have lots of hummus and falafel though, and not to forget the delicious knafeh in Nablus! Also, when I did eat out, it was usually very good quality and very nice (worth the price). There are international restaurants in all bigger cities, so I ended up having really nice Thai food in Haifa for example. As in Israeli cuisine, I enjoyed shakshuka a lot, had the best hummus of my life in Akko, the best falafel of my life in Haifa and the very damn best knafeh in Nablus (someone take me back pleaaase!).

Weather: I was very lucky with the weather. While it can usually still be a bit rainy in March, I only had 2 cooler, grey-ish days with still much better weather than snowy Europe at the same time. Mostly it was sunny and often hot, hot, hot! Wonder how it is in July…

Costs: I went to Israel on a mission to prove everyone wrong – that it is possible to travel Israel on a budget. And it is! At 41€/day I managed to stay well below my 60€/day target. This was mostly done through Couchsurfing for 7 days, staying in the cheapest available dorms on the other days, and cooking a lot for myself instead of eating out. I did not save on sightseeing and the like!

Accommodation: On average, dorm beds would cost around 20€/night with the exception of much-recommended Hebron Youth Hostel in Jerusalem. They were usually very nice, often included breakfast, but still… that much money for a dorm!?

Infrastructure: I used busses most of the time, the tram within Jerusalem and the train between Akko and Haifa. Often there was free WIFI which was nice, and generally the busses were comparable to busses at home (Austria). There are frequent delays though, especially in the North of Israel (Galilee area, Nazareth, Haifa), busses always took longer than expected, even when there were no significant traffic jams. Odd.

Illnesses: No cold for once! Happy days.

Safety: The old towns of Jerusalem and Nazareth can get a bit spooky after sunset, but I never felt unsafe. I did feel annoyed with all the security everywhere though at one point. Every day, I had to show my passport at least once, and the constant bag checks at every bus/train station, shopping center, major tourist site etc. were exhausting. I call Israel a military high-security state. I would not enjoy living like this.

Itinerary: I followed a bit of an odd-shaped circular route, seeing most major sights along the way. I felt quite rushed at times though and really had to push to manage and see everything that I wanted to see in my 2,5 weeks. Therefore, I would not recommend my itinerary to anyone with the same amount of time. Plan 3 weeks and you will enjoy it more. I would have especially liked some more time in Palestine, Golan Heights, Nazareth and Safed. I don’t have any travel regrets this time. I saw everything that was on „my list“ 🙂 Luckily, hence no reason to ever come back.

Highlight: Tricky, but I will go with Jerusalem although I did high-five myself when making it to Hexagon Pools!

Lowlight: My interrogation when leaving the country. As in places: Tiberias.

Click here to see all my pictures of Israel:

IMG_3810 (Kopie)

Last stop: Mitzpe Ramon

After challening my brain to understand the Hebron situation, I felt like it was time to challenge my body again! Trekking time. I took a bus from Jerusalem to Beer Sheva and then onwards to Mitzpe Ramon where I stayed at Green Backpackers, a cozy hostel located directly at the crater rim, at the start of many trekking routes. Also, staff is very helpful and provides you with maps and explanations for all kind of treks in the area.

I spent 2 days trekking in the area: On the first day, I took a bus to the ruins of Avdat from where I started a 6h trek, ending at Midreshet Ben Gurion – at the grave of Ben Gurion. In the course of the 6h, I passed through various stunning desert landscapes: Deep canyons, oddly carved rocks and a little oasis with a waterfall. Also, the ruins in Avdat were cool to see and offered a nice view over the area. I was hiking by myself and really enjoyed the peace and quiet. I only met about 5 other people during the whole time. Some might claim that’s a bit unsafe to go that far just by myself – but the trails were not too difficult and mostly easy to spot so I didn’t feel worried. Sometimes it’s also good to take a break from it all and just enjoy by yourself! Especially after some intense travelling days…

On the second day, I again set out by myself – this time mainly because people in my hostel seemed lazy and were only going to start trekking at around 9 or 10am which I consider too late in the desert. The best light for photos is in the morning (and evening), and also it gets soaring hot during the day! This time, I started right behind the hostel, walking down into the Makhtesh Ramon crater, traversing it, climbing the mountain Ramon’s Tooth (amazing 360 degree views!!), and hitchhiking back into town with a Dutch couple. The trek took about 5h this time and was beautiful once again. I did prefer my first day and consider the Avdat-Ein Avdat-Midreshet Ben Gurion trek one of the most beautiful hikes I have ever done!

I always had this idea of going to Mitzpe Ramon when I initially thought about visiting Israel years ago. I’m glad it worked out and did not disappoint! A good way to finish my time in Israel, or so I thought… cause what awaited be at Tel Aviv airport on my day of departure, I never would have guessed (tbc)!

A tour of Hebron – the divided city

I came back to Jerusalem for the sole purpose of joining a tour to Hebron, Palestine. While I am usually not a fan of organized tours, Abraham Hostels offers an interesting dual-narrative tour of Hebron which I considered the best way to see and experience this divided city. We were going to spend half of the day on each side – the Israeli one and the Palestine one – meeting locals in each part and hearing the different sides of the story.

Some background for my readers: Hebron is the largest city in Palestine, but has been divided into two zones: H1 (Palestine) and H2 (Israel, smaller part). Basically the Palestinians claim the city as their own, and the Israelis do the same. There are frequent clashes between the two groups and both sides are accusing each other of lying about things like throwing down things on the street (to hit people below), planting weapons on someone so they would get accused, taking away houses from each other etc. It’s a mess and both sides believe they are 100% right. The epicenter of the dispute is the Cave of Patriarchs – a holy site to both religions where different graves, for example of Abraham, are supposed to be located. This is also the reason why no side is willing to give up on Hebron…

We started the day on the Palestinian side of Hebron, walking around small streets and market stalls. I quite liked that part and the city, never mind politics! While walking around, we were pointed out some metal nets that had been installed above the market streets. There was lots of waste, rocks and other stuff laying on there – supposedly thrown down by the Israeli settlers, often inhabiting the top floors of the houses, while the Palestinians still live on the ground floor. Crazy, right!?

In the afternoon, we switched to the Israeli side, where the settlers live. Here, the streets were much emptier. Ghost town feeling. Not sure why they don’t make it nice for themselves with some cafes and shops, but there’s simply nothing. We also got the chance to talk to a settler living there which was eye-opening, fascinating and shocking at the same time. I was shocked how a seemingly smart, well-educated young man could have such beliefs. I can’t really recount all he explained to us, but if we all lived according to his beliefs, I guess I would be fine going back to Poland, finding the place where my family name originates from and kick the people living there now out of my old family house. Sounds crazy and it sure is. When asked about why many settlers have so many kids (8 on average), his answer was „what’s wrong with us trying to out-breed them!?“. Quote. And apparently he is one of the less radical settlers. Go figure. While I truly hated that arrogant a…hole, it was probably the best part of the day – best as in, providing me with insights about the whole Palestine situation and why there can be no easy solution.

My mind was a bit messed up after this day, trying to process all I had heard and seen. I truly hope there will be a solution for Israel and Palestine at one point – but having experienced Hebron, I very much doubt it. There is too much hate and anger on both sides, not enough willingness to forgive. Both sides have made mistakes in the past, but noone is willing to move on. It will also not get easier, if mainly radical people on both sides are trying to have more and more kids and educate them in a certain way. For anyone who wants a deeper understanding of the problem, I do recommend the tour by Abraham’s Hostels. It’s not THE most amazing tour I have ever joined, but especially meeting that settler was eye-opening.

IMG_4828 (Kopie)