Schlagwort-Archive: backpacking

Mozambique – Beaches & Relax Time

Mozambique – the last country of our world trip, the last 3 weeks of it! We decided to spend the majority of the time along the coast, relaxing on beautiful beaches, going for long beach walks, having a couple of beers each day, and generally just taking it slow before returning home.

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Our first stop along the coast was Tofo, which we reached after a long bus ride from Maputo. Here, we had booked ourselves a free diving course – something we had wanted to learn for a while now. It’s too bad that we only found a place to do this course at the end of our trip as it would have been handy for our snorkel trips in the South Pacific to know how to free dive. But well… better late, than never – and for the future, we have learned something! I also did 2 scuba dives during our time there – but was unlucky. Apparently the manta cleaning stations don’t really exist anymore, and as for the other big stuff… it’s a matter of luck. If you are not lucky (like me), there is not much to see – well, certainly not as much as expected.

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Nevertheless, we really liked Tofo. It was a relaxed place, we stayed at a nice hostel with a good vibe and a cheap shack in the village sold one of the best pizzas I have ever had outside Italy. The beach is a long stretch of sand – we went on walks in both directions over the days we spent in Tofo, and went for a swim here and there. Unfortunately, it was a bit cool for proper beach time. The water was cool, and outside temperatures didn’t climb too high either. Sometimes there was quite a breeze as well… And not just in Tofo, but in all the beach locations we visited.

After Tofo, we felt a bit more adventurous again and decided to stop by Pomene on our way to Vilankulos. Stopping by (getting there) took us a whole day and some very uncomfy rides that I was not in the mood for anymore. Definitely an adventure, but I’m not sure I would do it again… The beach in Pomene is beautiful though and has huge potential. At the moment, there is only one good accommodation option available – but I can imagine more and more popping up in the future. We loved going for walks on the beach – but were not too lucky with the weather as it was a bit grey and rainy sometimes.

So after 2 days, we ventured on to Vilankulos – a trip that once again took much longer than expected and was much more exhausting than we would have thought. In the end though… it was absolutely worth it!! Vilankulos is an amazing place, with big differences between high and low tide which creates beautiful sand banks and leaves the colourful local boats stranded during low tide. It was so beautiful!!

In the afternoon, some fishing boats would come back with their catch and people would gather around the boats to make their purchases. Vilankulos beach was not the typical beach to lay in the sun and chill, but a great place to watch the local life around you. We loved it!

During our time there, we also booked a boat tour to Bazaruto Archipelago. It was an awesome day!! Right when we arrived at the first island, we were lucky enough to spot a dugong. It stayed around for a bit, but was too fast for us when we got into the water. Really cool though – after being so unlucky in Vanuatu earlier during our world trip, we finally, finally saw a dugong!

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We then got to snorkel 2-Mile-Reef… WOW! We have seen quite some good reefs on this trip, but the coral here must be some of the healthiest we have seen. We also spotted plenty of marine life: some moray eels, blue spotted stingrays, turtles, loads and loads of beautiful fish – only the sharks were hiding from us. Too bad! Would have been cool to get a little shark-goodbye present on our trip 😉

On Bazaruto Island, we climbed a sand dune which offered amazing views. It reminded me a bit of Whitsunday Islands in Australia, minus the hordes of people. Bazaruto remains rather untouristy so far – there were some other tours, but not many, and the groups were always small.

Beautiful, isn’t it!? After a delicious BBQ buffet lunch and some relaxing time, we drove along the coast of Benguera Island where we stopped for a little walk around too. It was pretty as well, but not as stunning as Bazaruto Island.

After these beautiful days in Vilankulos, we took a long bus ride back to Maputo, where we had to spend the night before venturing on to Ponta do Ouro next day. Our last beach stop! Originally, I had planned to do some diving here as well – but I couldn’t really motivate myself: the only good dive shop was closed for holidays and the other one didn’t seem professional. It was quite windy again and I had had my dose of sea sickness aka feeding the fish in Tofo. They were using rubber dinghys again which I hate as they are so bouncy and super uncomfy. And I just generally felt too lazy to go for it. So we spent our days once again doing beach walks, relaxing in the sun, taking it very slow and enjoying a beer or two. No, it wasn’t too bad 🙂

And with this… Mozambique and our whole trip came to an end! We bussed it back to Maputo, where after a short night we boarded a flight back to Europe. Bye, bye, Africa…

Harar: the Good, the Bad and the Ugly

From Lalibela, we embarked on a little travel marathon to reach our final destination: Harar. Flights out of Lalibela to anywhere were pretty expensive on short notice, so we decided to take a bus to Bahir Dar and fly from there, via Addis Abeba, to Dire Dawa. Harar doesn’t have an airport, so from Dire Dawa we would take another bus to Harar. Sounds long? Yeps, it was.  

Our bus journey to Bahir Dar was probably the worst we had in Ethiopia: first no seats, then overcharged for our luggage, or they would have kicked us off the bus. In exchange we did get seats, however the bus was too full and a puking women (8 h straight almost!!) sat and puked next to Mathijs on the floor. Not very enjoyable. The flight was the easiest part and went rather smoothly, Dire Dawa a catastrophe stopover with a bad overpriced hotel with unhelpful staff, and the bus ride to Harar longer than expected.

Harar started off badly as well. Lots of homeless people, many druggies trying to talk to you and get something from you etc. Some guys grabbed me, tried to touch me and so on. I shouted at people, slapped one of the guys in the face and people around me were just laughing mostly. What the f…!? Ethiopia so far had been exhausting, but this was just plain bad bad bad. I just didn’t feel safe, something that was not the case anywhere else in Ethiopia.

It turned out though that the town itself is nice and colourful. It’s just not as pretty as we had expected, but there’s lots of picturesque little streets and colourful local markets.

Because it’s a mainly Muslim town, women were all covered, but in a very colourful way that made for good photos. Fortunately, they usually didn’t mind, so Mathijs was one happy street photographer.

I was still not feeling too comfortable, but the photogenic old center made up a bit for the exhausting trip here and the drama with the homeless druggies. A bit. I wouldn’t go back to Harar, and it’s not a must see for me. The effort required to get here is just not worth it – there are easier to reach market towns in this world.

After these last exhausting days, I was also more than happy about our sudden plan change to leave Ethiopia a few days earlier than planned: we had discovered that the visa we had gotten was valid for 29 days instead of the usual 30 days. Our flight out was on day 30. We couldn’t find any easy way to clarify the mistake without paying lots of money and read about people being forced into ridiculous fees or otherwise missing their flight. In short: the easiest way out (literally) seemed to be to change our flight to Windhoek for 2 days earlier – not cheap either, but at least our worries were gone!

Ethiopia, you’ve been very interesting, and very exhausting.

Lalibela – Ethiopia’s famous churches

On public transport, it takes 2 days to get from Mekele to Lalibela. Something we would not look forward to after our recent bus ride from Gondar to Shire/Aksum. Luckily though…we got a private jeep for ourselves to do it in one day instead of two! Haha. One of the main reasons why we booked the Danakil tour with Ethio Travel and Tours was that they included a free transfer to Lalibela – and were the cheapest overall, especially when considering the huge comfort factor of a private transfer! The ride did take most of the day, but it was relaxed and we were able to stop for photos any time we wanted.

We stayed a couple of nights in Lalibela, taking it slower than usual. On our first day, we got a bit organised in the morning and walked around town. In the afternoon, we went to see the Northern cluster of churches, which was really nice. There was a mass going on and we could watch the locals singing and praying.

Later, we went to St. George’s church, the most famous one of Lalibela. If you Google Lalibela, high chance is that this picture will come up:

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The churches don’t all look like this, only this one. It’s by far the most pretty one, so we came back here many times over the next few days in order to take the best pictures.

Next day, we woke up super early and went to the churches at 6am when they open for tourists. We heard chanting and praying from multiple places and kind of chased around to find where the biggest mass was going on (it was in the Southern cluster). Anywhere we went though, there was some praying or chanting happening and it was beautiful to listen and watch. Once again, this felt like travelling back in time… Oh, Ethiopia!

We then took our time to properly see the Southern church cluster, in my opinion much nicer than the Northern one.

On our last day in Lalibela, we decided to visit the big Saturday market. It was massive and really cool to walk around – if a bit stressful since kids were begging all the time and teenagers wanting to be your guide. Oh, Ethiopia! So fascinating one moment, so exhausting the next one.

Next day, we were off to a horror bus trip of 8 h to Bahir Dar, from where we would catch a flight through Addis to Dire Dawa…