Schlagwort-Archive: around the world

Tel Aviv: The modern face of Israel

Meeting up with Michal and her brother in Haifa, I had a very comfortable way of reaching Tel Aviv by car. Michal, her boyfriend and their cute dog hosted me for the following days which was much appreciated. It’s always good to meet up with people you know from previous travels, and it’s great to stay with locals in their home.

I had 2 full days for Tel Aviv which was easily enough time. The whole city is very walkable, even all the way down to Jaffa, the old part of town. On Saturday, Michal showed me around mainly in the southern part of the city. We walked along famous Rothschild Boulevard, through the small streets of Newe Zedek and along the beach until we reached Jaffa. Weather was rather grey and cool unfortunately, so chilling on the beach was not really an option. I really liked Jaffa with its little streets and old buildings, resembling other old towns I had seen in the days before a bit, e.g. Akko.

At the flea market area, we met up with Ornit, who I know from travelling South America in 2012. We went for lunch in one of the many nice restaurants of the area. The afternoon was filled with more walking around and visiting different Tel Aviv neighbourhoods.

On my second day in Tel Aviv, I took the bus to the northern part of the city, starting my day with a delicious breakfast at cafe Benedict (recommendation!) near the Hilton. I then walked along the beach to the harbour of Tel Aviv, and further on to Gordon Beach. There’s a nice beach walk which you can follow pretty much all the way from the North to Jaffa if you want to.

I turned inland again though, wanting to see some more of Tel Aviv’s architecture and markets. I passed by Levinsky market street in which there are many nice cafes, but really enjoyed Carmel market with all the different products it has to offer. Then, I returned to the beaches where I chilled for a while, soaking up the sun. There was still a cool breeze and it wasn’t too hot though, so I skipped the swimming part.

Overall, Tel Aviv was a cool city to explore. While there’s not many wow-ing sights, it’s more about the lifestyle here – beaches, hip cafes and nice restaurants are waiting for the traveller. Apparently also a good night life, but I skipped that part. Maybe next time!

Haifa, Akko and Ceasarea – Exploring the Northern coast of Israel

From Nazareth, I took a bus to Haifa – supposedly the „most beautiful city of Israel“. While I’m not sure who came up with that, it was a good base for the next days to explore Akko and Ceasarea from. I had found a host on Couchsurfing who showed me around Haifa a bit, even giving me a city tour by night which was very special, especially to see the Bahai Gardens illuminated which are already pretty enough during day time. Also, the views over Haifa were spectacular. Since it’s such a hilly city, there are many great viewpoints to be found.

The following day, I first took the train to Akko, where I walked around the old town for a while. While it’s definitely nice, it’s hard to take good pictures: there’s cables hanging everywhere, cars parked in the middle of what would be a perfect picture etc. Not very photographer-friendly. The old town is small and you can see the main sights within an hour or two. Sight-wise, I really liked the Al-Jazzar mosque with its pretty courtyard and interior.

However, the best overall experience in Akko was eating hummus at Sayd Hummus. It was by far the best hummus I ever had and a huge portion (as always)!

IMG_4405 (Kopie)

From Akko, I took the train back to Haifa and then got on a bus to the Or Akiva junction. It’s the closest you can get to the ruins of Ceasarea by public transport from Haifa without doing a crazy amount of changes. From the junction, you can then wait for another bus to bring you closer to the ruins, hitchhike or walk. I didn’t feel much like hitchhiking that day, so opted to walk the 25 min. When I reached the ruins, I was truly impressed by the size of the whole site! So far definitely the best ruins I have seen in Israel. The Amphitheatre however was a bit disappointing, looking rather newly renovated. They could have done a better job there.

Once I had seen the main cluster of ruins and watched the short movie about the history of Ceasarea, I made my way along the coast to the beach of Ceasarea with its photogenic Roman aqueduct. In hindsight, this was probably my favourite part of Ceasarea and it was too bad I didn’t think about bringing my bikini and towel to enjoy the beach a bit more.

So after some pics, I asked Google how to get back to Haifa and it spat out a very good sounding option where I’d have to walk only 10 min, get on a bus for 10 min, then walk for another 8 min to the next bus stop from where there was a direct connection to Haifa. For any other independent traveller: Don’t do this!! The foot path connecting the two bus stops does not exist anymore. There’s been some construction work in the area and there’s a gigantic earth mound. I climbed it to get an overview and then followed the path on the top which was leading me further away from the bus stop though. I couldn’t get down on either side anymore cause there were fences, and bushes. In the end I was running, trying to somehow make the bus and not be stuck in the middle of nowhere for hours potentially. I found kind of a road, and just ran really hard in the direction of the bus stop according to Google maps. My backpack zipper ripped open because of the bouncing and my camera dropped to the ground. It’s a mystery to me how it’s still kind of working up to now. I JUST made the bus, completely exhausted and sweaty. Like I said: Don’t trust Google Maps on this one and rather walk back to Or Akiwa junction instead!

Overall, it was still good to see Ceasarea though. I always get more interested in sights when I find out they are a bit hard to reach – same as with the Hexagon Pools before. And again, it was a success in the end – even though a sweaty one!

Next day I had another couple of hours to see Haifa, and decided to walk from Carmel Center to the Bahai Gardens, to take in some more great city views. I also walked a bit inside the gardens, however couldn’t walk all the way through without a tour unfortunately. I didn’t make it to the free tour, since I was gonna meet up with Michal, my host for Tel Aviv who was picking me up in Haifa with her brother, and my Haifa host, for lunch. Oh well, can’t have it all! The gardens were still really beautiful without a tour and I very much recommend walking around there! A good way to say goodbye to Haifa – by walking through the one part of the city that I would actually agree IS beautiful.

Nazareth – another special little town

Nazareth was another place in Israel where I had always wanted to go, so when finally arriving in the afternoon from Tiberias, I was eager to just drop my stuff at the hostel and head out to explore! And that’s what I did. Equipped with a map from the hostel, I first made my way to St Gabriel’s church, Mary’s Well and the pretty square in front of them. The church was nice, but the well a disappointment and I continued my way to the main sight of Nazareth – the Church of the Annunciation.

This church was supposedly built at the location where Mary learned that she’d give birth to Jesus. I must say – I wasn’t expecting much since it’s actually a rather new church being built in 1969 only. It completely knocked my socks off though! It’s a huge and impressive church, built in a modern style with lots of modern art inside and outside. So far, my favourite church in Israel!

Also, St Joseph’s Church nearby is worth a visit. I continued walking through the little streets of Nazareth until sunset when the empty alleys became a little spooky and I returned to the hostel. I stayed at the Fauzi Azar Hostel, which is quite a special place since it’s located in a very old building with high rooms and paintings on the ceilings. It has a lovely courtyard, and runs a free city tour every morning which I joined the next day. It doesn’t bring you to the main sights but rather to some local businesses where owners introduce you to their life and work. While it was interesting, I had expected something a bit different. Quite some of the stops were shops and the owners were clearly interested in selling something to us. Since it was a big group, there were always people taking forever with their purchases. So in the end the tour took 1,5 h longer than expected and I had to forget about my plan of visiting Akko (north of Haifa) the same day. I still made it to Haifa of course, but wouldn’t have had enough time to go and see Akko anymore. In hindsight, I should have skipped the free tour, taken another quick walk around Nazareth myself and then gone to Haifa/Akko – but well!