Schlagwort-Archive: around the world

Lunch & Shisha in Shatila

At my hostel in Beirut, I met Nanna from Denmark – an adventurous girl who had the idea of visiting a Palestine refugee camp in Beirut, called Shatila. Shatila is not really a camp as in tents, but more a permanent settlement within Beirut where refugees from Palestine (some already there since 2 or 3 generations) have basically set up everything as nicely as possible for their new life here. There’s shops, restaurants, barbers, everything. But there’s also lots of poverty of course. This is a much poorer area than the Beirut I had seen earlier, so I left my DSLR in my backpack and only took some quick shots from my phone, out of respect.

At first we felt a bit odd, walking through Shatila as tourists, two blond girls clearly standing out from the local crowd. But the Palestinians soon made us feel very welcome. We were greeted with smiles everywhere and people wanted to know where we’re from. Luckily for me, Nanna speaks Arabic very well, so she acted as an interpreter for me. Some of the closer encounters certainly wouldn’t have happened if she hadn’t been there with her Arabic skills. Like this, we got invited for coffee and shisha and the owners of the little cafe refused to take any money from us. We also had some delicious Lebanese pizza, called Manoosh.

 

I really enjoyed my time in Shatila, especially meeting all the friendly Palestinians. It felt a bit like being back in Nablus, Palestine, unfortunately without the knafeh. I am well aware that daily life is difficult for the people living in Shatila, but at least we were able to get some lunch and drinks there and therefore support the local economy a little. For the really adventurous there’s a hostel where you can stay at in Shatila!

Day tripping Lebanon: Jeita Grotto, Jounieh and Byblos

When I arrived in Beirut, I immediately met a nice girl at the hostel I was staying at who wanted to go on a day trip the next day. Of course the more logical start for seeing Lebanon would have been to explore Beirut first – but since she had it all figured out and wanted to see all places that I had planned to go to the next few days anyways, the choice was easy for me to accompany her.

We first took a bus to Jeita Junction, from where we continued with a shared taxi in the direction of Jeita Grotto. We had to walk the last 20 min or so, but it was an enjoyable walk. I immediately started falling in love with Lebanon – everything was so nicely green again, the ocean was gleaming nice and blue and people were once again warm and welcoming. I even felt more welcome here than in Jordan, since it’s a bit more Western and there are many Christians which means women don’t need to cover themselves and it’s just more open in all kind of ways.

But back to the Jeita Grotto. I have seen many, many caves in my life, so was a bit doubtful about how much I would enjoy this one. However – I am very glad I went, since it ended up being the most beautiful cave I had ever seen!! It was not the largest one for sure (at least not the part you can visit for now), but the stalactites and stalacmites are stunning. For some odd reason they do not allow you to bring your camera inside, something I cannot understand at all. You even have to lock it away in a locker right in front of the cave – so no chance smuggling it in. They also keep your phones usually, but I managed to smuggle mine in anyways. Haha! So at least I was able to take a couple of sneaky shots – before I got told off by one of the security staff. While it was amazing to visit this cave, part of me was crying on the inside because I couldn’t take the photos that I wanted to. It was painful. Especially with my wide-angle lens, I would have been able to take so many cool shots. Sigh.

When we were done with touring the upper and lower caves, we started walking along the road and attempted to get a shared taxi ride to the cable car of Jounieh, which worked out well in the end. We got dropped exactely at the station, and bought our tickets for the tiny (2 person) cable car – great views and a cool experience, being in such a small cable car!

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Up at the top, there’s the statue of Our Lady of Lebanon which is not the special though. What is special, are the amazing views you get from up there over the whole area. The bay at Jounieh has a picturesque shape and the colours were once again brilliant. Bye bye, desert landscape!

As a last stop of the day, we pushed further to Byblos – a cute little town with some ruins, old streets and a little harbour. I really liked Byblos – you could walk around without getting hassled and it was very peaceful. We first explored the ruins, which again where not that special themselves, but the site offered some really nice views and great photo opportunities.

Later, we walked through the small streets to the harbour and around the rest of the town. If there was a hostel in Byblos, I would have certainly liked to spend a night there – but to this date there is no budget accommodation available unfortunately, so back to Beirut we went!

 

Jordan – Summary & Pictures

People: There’s not a lot of backpackers, but there’s also not a lot of hostels – hence you meet again and again. I was lucky to meet some really cool people to travel with while in Jordan, and rarely spent time by myself. As for locals – sorry Israel, but Jordan wins. Miles ahead. I was so happy that people finally seemed happy again to see me as a tourist. My first day in Amman was filled with a constant „welcome to Jordan“ and kids wanting to take selfies with me. However, I also got lots of attention from the guys – never in an annoying or intimidating way, but it did get a bit exhausting sometimes. Women with low self-esteem: go to Jordan!

Food: Falafel, hummus and other „dips“. In the beginning I liked it, but did get a bit sick of it in the end. That’s when the buffet in Wadi Rum came in handy! I started missing fresh fruits and veggi- onees prepared in a way other than mashed into a dip. My favourite was yet again knafeh – I stuffed myself with the cheesy deliciousness in Amman! Not as good as in Nablus, but still really really tasty.

Weather: Apart from the one grey day in Petra, it was sunny and almost too hot all along.

Costs: At 50€/day I managed to stay below my 60€ target, but surprisingly spent more than in Israel, even though I would consider Jordan cheaper. Why is that? First, I did not find any female Couchsurfing hosts and did not want to stay with guys in a Muslim country. Also, the hostels were cheap but didn’t have shared kitchens so I had to eat out. Lastly, the cost of the Jordan Pass, while well worth it, also impacted my budget.

Accommodation: I only stayed at two different hostels – one costing 7€/night and the other one 5€/night. The first one was ok, the other barely bearable. The things you do to save money!

Infrastructure: I used busses and taxis (sometimes shared). There’s no trains. Unfortunately there’s not a lot of public transport in Jordan, so many places are difficult or impossible to get to without a rental car.

Illnesses: All good once again!

Safety: Felt very safe and welcome.

Itinerary: I basically did (almost) all I could on public transport. I would have loved to hike Wadi Mujib, Dana nature reserve and maybe see some of the desert castles but that simply wasn’t possible without renting a car. Amman (incl. day trips) – Petra – Wadi Rum is the standard backpacker route. Some add Aqaba but it didn’t sound appealing to me.

Highlight: Petra, no question.

Lowlight: Madaba.

Click here to see all my pictures of Jordan:

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Me in front of the Treasury