Archiv der Kategorie: Oceania

One week in Fiji – Viti Levu

We were looking forward to Fiji to get a break from the rather difficult travelling in the Solomon Islands and Vanuatu. Finally there were cheap busses available, actual working Wi-Fi in the hostels and some good Indian food. Yummy!

The first night we stayed in Nadi after arriving late from Port Vila, but didn’t really get to see the city. We only stopped by a medical clinic the next day to get Mathijs‘ wound finally checked by a doctor. The clinic was rather simple – not as shocking as Nepal back then with my dad, but not very clean or modern. Somehow we had thought Fiji was more developed already. Anyways, all the equipment was sterile and new, so good enough!

We then hopped on a bus all the way to Suva, which took 4.5 h on a modern, air-con service. In Suva we treated ourselves to some delicious Indian food and then took yet another bus to get to the Colo-i-Suva Eco Lodge next to the rain forest park with the same name. It’s a nice lodge with a pretty setting for breakfast and you wake up to the sound of birds. The rain-forest park was a bit odd on the other hand. No-one had informed us that you had to walk about 2 km on a gravel road to get to the trails. Mathijs didn’t join in the end due to his foot. The trails were odd and not marked at all. I followed the main trail until it brought me back to the gravel road – but never really knew where I was headed. There are some pretty little waterfalls and pools you can swim in – with groups of locals jumping from high rocks. It was nice to follow the trail along the river for a bit – but I always felt like I was walking without a „purpose“ – like a point you want to reach. As I was by myself and didn’t know about the swimming options anyways, I didn’t stay too long. Well – when the trail was finished, I just walked back! There were some smaller trails along the way but they were quite overgrown, full of spider webs and without knowing where they would bring me, I didn’t feel in the mood to fight my way through the jungle. Lol. That being said, if you’re coming by car and want a nice dip in some pools, slide down a waterfall etc, then this park is for sure a nice stop along the way!

After we lost about 4 h of our day to Tongan travel planning (and still have to hope it all works out in the end), we made our way to Suva, had a small lunch snack and then walked around the city for a bit. Our verdict: Not much to see but it’s very green and so far the nicest city we’ve seen in the South Pacific!

Another 1.5 h bus ride brought us to Pacific Harbour where we spent lots of time relaxing and planning our time in Tonga and French Polynesia. Booking the air pass for French Polynesia took us about 6 h and cost us many nerves… but it’s done!! And that’s the most important.

The original reason to come to Pacific Harbour though, was to go shark diving! Unfortunately Mathijs couldn’t join due to his wound, so I did 2 dives by myself. What an experience!! I expected lots of sharks but thought that most would be smaller reef sharks. Nope! At times there were 10 massive bull sharks circling around the feeding station!! Plus some huge nurse sharks and the really cool lemon sharks. In addition there were the usual reef sharks of course, but these were so small in comparison that I didn’t even pay much attention to them. But seeing those bulls was freaking awesome!!! It was quite a show dive though of course. The sharks are being fed, and you have to kneel behind a wall of dead coral and just watch. It’s cool to have experienced it, but I don’t need to do it again. I prefer „real“ dives.

We then made our way to the Beachouse accommodation at Coral Coast for a night. The location was beautiful!! Lots of palm trees, a white sand beach and clear water, looking very inviting. We had some good relaxing time here. Originally I had wanted to go snorkelling, but there was a cold wind for most of our time there, so we were in long sleeves and not really tempted to go for a swim. Ok, after all it is winter on Fiji!

From the Beachouse, we took a minibus back to Nadi, where we just spent one more (short) night before our flight to the next South Pacific nation: Tonga! Because our time in Fiji was so short, I won’t do the usual country summary – but here are some more pictures for those interested: Fiji Pictures

Vanuatu – Summary & Pictures

People: I read somewhere before that the ni-Van are super friendly, so maybe my expectations were just too high. While we did meet some friendly people, we also met many moody ones. You couldn’t really rely on how they would react to something in one situation or the other. Also, most struck us as rather lazy, especially thinking about those Air Vanuatu employees. Compared to the Solomon Islands, we finally met some other backpackers – for some reason mainly Frenchies. Some islands like Santo seem to be popular for Aussie families too.

Food: Not great at all. The only good food we ate was burgers at a Western-run place in Luganville and the best Chinese noodles ever at Kung Fu Noodles in Port Vila. The typical Vanuatu food was often bland, and in Ambrym we were served dry rice with canned tuna as dinner. Uuuagghh. With a price tag! Often we had to just suck (or in that case: eat) it up since there were rarely shared kitchens to cook for ourselves.

Weather: A bit better than in the Solomon Islands but still challenging! In Tanna we had almost 2 days of constant rain, almost spoiling our Mt Yasur experience. Overall we did have a lot of heat and sunshine though!

Costs: Including all flights we spent about 57€/day/person which is pretty much on our 60€ target. We’ve decided to include all inland flights in our country budget to make the countries better comparable (e.g. in the Solomon Islands we only took ferries but our overall spendings are still higher than in Vanuatu). With more time at our hands we could have maybe managed to take a ferry / cargo ship here and there to save some costs.

Accommodation: We finally got to use our tent! Still getting used to it, but camping directly on the beach does have some appeal. Some places like Port Vila didn’t have camping, so we took a cheap double room. Often, facilities were very very basic, for example showering with brackish water out of a bucket in Ambrym or not having running water at all for 2 days (also Ambrym). There were also lots of bugs, and sometimes this all got a bit too much for me!

Infrastructure: Ferries are less reliable and frequent than in the Solomons, so we had to take many flights. Air Vanuatu is by far the worst airline we’ve ever flown with, but there is no alternative. In some places there are shared minivans, but in Tanna you have to charter (as a tourist, you pay a crazy high price and there’s no way around). So overall…not very good.

Illnesses: Mathijs had to deal with a wound infection which was annoying and difficult at times when we were lacking basic things like fresh water to wash your hands or somewhat clean surroundings (Ambrym, I’m talking about you again!).

Safety: We felt save, only camping directly in town in Luganville felt a bit odd with our valuables just behind the thin tent walls…

Itinerary: The most common islands to visit are Tanna and Santo, but we also went to Ambrym which felt very remote, and did a short detour to Malekula. If we would do it again, we’d plan at least a month, definitely include Malekula and maybe Pentecost as well, maybe Epi. Also, we didn’t really get to see Efate – so if I can forget about the Air Vanuatu drama at one point, we might return to visit these islands.

Highlight: Tanna, respectively Mt Yasur, despite the high prices.

Lowlight: The food!

Click on the photo below to see our full photo album of Vanuatu:

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Port Vila – gateway to Vanuatu

We stayed in Port Vila multiple times: the first night after we arrived we didn’t get to see the town but just stayed at a hotel close to the airport. The second time, we had a day between arriving back from Ambrym and heading to Tanna. That time, we lost half of the day being on the phone with Air Vanuatu since they had lost our luggage during the connection on Santo. After many not so friendly conversations the evening before, we got 7.000 VT to buy toiletries and stuff. After some more and even less friendly calls (or should I say shouting at every single lazy Air Vanuatu employee we could get hold of multiple times on the phone as well as in the office) they finally got to work and realized our luggage had been put on an earlier flight the day before and had always been in Port Vila. (…..) After some more discussion, they finally accepted that they’d bring our bags to our hotel (they had requested we go back to the airport to pick it up ourselves). Gotta love Air Vanuatu. Never seen so many dumb and lazy people working in one place.

Anyways, Port Vila. It’s actually an ok town, much better than Honiara for example, but there’s not a whole lot to see and do. We walked down the promenade, checked out the local market and had some beers in the sun to celebrate the reunion with our backpacks.

Then we were off to Tanna, returning after some more Air Vanuatu trouble once again to Port Vila for a day. We should have had 2 days to explore the main island of Efate but due to our flight being cancelled, we only got back to Port Vila with half a day left before our departure to Fiji. Not really enough time for anything… and since it was Independence Day, we just walked around the center a bit, watching the masses of people in colourful clothes with Vanuatu flags in their hair. Everyone was out for a family day it seemed!

So even though we came to Port Vila 3 times, we never made it out of the capital to explore Efate. Maybe next time, when I’ve forgotten about all the Air Vanuatu drama and I’m ready to visit Vanuatu again…