Archiv der Kategorie: Oceania

Tongatapu – Nuku’alofa & Pangaimotu

Tongatapu. When visiting Tonga, one most likely has to pass through the main island and its capital, Nuku’alofa. There’s not much to see and do, already the drive from the airport to town was rather boring. But of course, the main island was not the reason we were here! Because of the ferry schedule, we had about 1.5 days here before heading to Ha’apai. We had lots of organizational things to do – think food shopping, dinner plans for the next week ahead, buying ferry tickets, calculating the amount of cash needed (no ANZ ATM in Ha’apai) etc.

We also rented a scooter for a day and drove around the island to see the main sights. As mentioned before, nothing was really exciting, but it was still a nice way to spend a day. We had missed being on a scooter, one of the things we always loved to do during our travels in South East Asia! First we headed to Ha’atafu beach, one of the islands main ones. It was too cool and windy to stay long though, so after a short photo stop, we continued to the South coast.

There, we visited a couple of blowholes, whereas the Alofa’aga blowholes are of course the most well-known and cool ones. This was the one sight of Tongatapu that was awesome! We could have watched for hours…

Another nice stop was the land bridge further East. Basically it’s a broad rock bridge, so broad that you can even walk on it or drive your car across it. The South coast was interesting, and quite different than expected – wild, rough, dark lava rocks, waves smashing against them!

We drove around a bit more, but didn’t end up seeing anything really nice anymore. Also, we had to be back in town by mid-afternoon already to further organize some things and then head to the slow ferry. 12h overnight to Pangai, Ha’apai… But it turned out that this ferry was a luxurious one compared to our beloved MV Anjeanette in the Solomons! Spacious and not overloaded with working (almost too cool) aircon and all. Wow! In the morning hours we were able to watch some whales breaching nearby. Awesome!!

We then spent about 10 days in Ha’apai and Vava’u – before returning to Tongatapu for another day. Since it was Sunday and Tonga is a very religious country, there was not much we could do – so we opted for a day trip to the little island of Pangaimotu. Unfortunately, the weather was grey and cooler, so we didn’t really get the beach time we were hoping for. There is a nice wreck to snorkel though, fun for some free diving until we got too cold again. Overall, the day trip was nothing special and probably to expensive for what it was. However, they somehow forgot to charge us for it, so we ended up with a free trip including decent lunch! Not too bad.

The most exciting part of the day was witnessing our first earth quake! It felt really odd, as if someone was pushing against my chair from below and wanted to get out. While it was a strong earth quake at about 8.1 that happened between Fiji and Tonga, we did not feel it that strongly because it happened very deep down. Luckily because of the depth there was also no tsunami warning – else it might have been scary since the island is completely flat!

From then on, Mathijs and I went separate ways for about 2 weeks. While he was going to be back in Australia with his family, I was headed to Samoa – to explore yet another South Pacific nation.

Vava’u – snorkelling and road trip

When we researched flights and ferry connections about 2 weeks ago in Fiji, we had a bit of a shock moment, discovering that flights were fully booked and ferry schedules unreliable/not available. It looked as if we had to spend all our time on just Ha’apai OR Vava’u whereas I had always wanted to see both island groups. In the end, we decided to chance it and assume we could make it somehow from Ha’apai to Vava’u, booked our flight out of Vava’u and took the ferry to Ha’apai. If anything went wrong, we would have been stuck in Ha’apai…but well. Sometimes you gotta risk things like this and it did work out, although it almost went wrong when one of the ferries broke down! To our surprise, they efficiently (not very South Pacifican of them…Haha) replaced the broken slow ferry with two fast ferries – and off we were to Neiafu, the main town of Vava’u.

We only had two full days for Vava’u, so decided to stay in Neiafu. One day, we rented a car and drove around the main island. It’s not too big, so by the end of the day we had driven into pretty much every corner that our 2WD car would take us. Unfortunately, the weather was not that great and sometimes rainy, but we tried to make the best of it. In all honesty, there are not too many wow-ing sights on the island. One of the best ones was Mt Talau, a short, steep climb up the highest point awarded us with amazing views in all directions! In fact, we liked it so much that we came back a 2nd time in the late afternoon when the clouds had cleared a little more.

Another really nice spot was a viewpoint on the North coast, close to the airport. We just followed some signs and in the end walked for 1km when the road got too bad. And were surprised to land ourselves at this awesome viewpoint! We were even lucky to be able to watch some whales swimming around in the bay below us.

The rest of the main island was not that interesting and after Ha’apai, we were quite disappointed by the beaches Vava’u had to offer. Maybe there are better ones on the outer islands, but from what we’ve seen during our road trip (and the boat trip next day), I’m not sure.

The snorkelling trip next day brought us through the little bays and between many smaller islands of Vava’u. Unfortunately the weather was still mostly grey and cool, so that we really appreciated the brief moments of sunshine in between, in which the waters glittered in a beautiful turquoise. The maze of islands and bays is definitely beautiful, but Marovo Lagoon is similar – and better, we thought.

During the tour, we first visited Port Mourelle, a pretty bay with turquoise water, but the snorkelling was boring. Dead coral.

The next spot was Swallow’s Cave which was a cool experience to snorkel in: the water deep blue and very clear and thousands of small fish which you could free dive through! There were also some divers at the bottom of the cave which we watched for a bit. Just nearby, there was another little cave with a small swim through, to make up for Mariner’s Cave I suppose (we couldn’t find a tour going there unfortunately).

By the time we reached the last snorkelling spot, Japanese Gardens, we were freezing like crazy which was too bad since it was quite pretty. But the sun was hiding behind the clouds, the wind had picked up and the water temperatures are not very high in Tonga anyways. So we kept the snorkelling short and were looking forward to our hot shower at our guesthouse!

All in all, we were glad that we spent much more time in Ha’apai than Vava’u since it was so much nicer there. If we had had any more time in Vava’u, we probably would have gone to Ofu Island or so for a day or two, but again, it didn’t look spectacular to me. The snorkelling tour was expensive for what it was, and so was the car rental. It’s sometimes difficult to find out beforehand in the South Pacific, if places are really worth it and what there is to see and do… So I guess it was good we went to Vava’u to see for ourselves, but if we’d have to recommend one of the two island groups, our vote would clearly go to Ha’apai!

Whales and beach time in Ha’apai

It was ferry time again! The slow ferry took us in 12h overnight from Nuku’alofa to Ha’apai – a journey much more comfortable than on our beloved MV Anjeanette in the Solomons, but therefore also a little less exciting and adventurous. The coolest part was spotting some whales from the deck of the ferry in the morning hours before we arrived in Pangai, the main town (village) of Ha’apai.

We spent one day and night here, renting bicycles and cycling the whole length of Lifuka and Foa islands. These two islands are connected by a bridge, the trip is about 14km one way and at the end of it, there’s a pretty beach to chill and snorkel (whereas the snorkelling in the sheltered area was not that great and out further there was a ripping current). But a very pretty spot for a afternoon!

Next day, we got picked up by Taiana’s Resort and transferred by boat to their place on Uoleva where we spent the next 5 nights camping directly on this amazing beach:

Awesome, right? So for the next few days, it was mainly about beaches and chilling. There was not much else to do! Once, we walked around the whole island which takes about 3-4h and offers loads and loads of beautiful views.

For the rest, we swam, read, enjoyed the sun and chatted with all the other travellers (the place was fully booked!). Aaaaand we went snorkelling with whales, twice! In Tonga, every year around June-September you can have the chance to see humpback whales! The mothers come with their calves into the sheltered bays where they can nurse them in peace. Tonga is one of the only places in the world where you can not just go whale watching, but you can actually get into the water and snorkel with these amazing creatures!

First time we went out, we barely got our wetsuits on and were already told to get ready to jump into the water! The first mother and calf were especially relaxed and let us come really close. We were able to stay and swim with them for about an hour, with the little one coming very close at times, playing with us! We were speechless – they were just soooo cute and beautiful!

We had a couple of other good encounters after that – one ended with the mother and calf breaching just metres away from us! One moment we were watching them underwater and the next one they were jumping up right next to us. Super cool!! The impact and loud sound the mother’s breaching made, was crazy!

All in all, we had two awesome whale watching days with Taiana’s Resort. They’re not only much cheaper than other companies, the groups are smaller so you get more time in the water with the whales and the money goes to a local family instead of Aussies or Kiwis who run most other whale watching tours. From Uoleva, we went back to Pangai for a night to catch the fast ferry next afternoon to Vava’u since the slow ferry was broken…