Archiv der Kategorie: French Polynesia

Bora Bora: 50 Shades of Blue

When we booked our air pass for French Polynesia, we couldn’t resist including Bora Bora in our itinerary. We wanted to see what all its fame was about and if those over-the-water bungalows are really all that amazing (they are – at least from what we could see from the outside!). Our flight from Raiatea landed in the late afternoon so that we were treated to a beautiful sunset when taking the free Air Tahiti shuttle boat from the airport motu to the main island. What a view!

We were then picked up by our host from AirBnB – Rosalie, who took us out for dinner at one of the food trucks before showing us around her and Marc’s lovely place in Vaitape. Instead of having to camp, they had recently built a cute little cabin in their garden with a private hot shower and toilet! Awesome!! During our whole stay, they went out of their way in hosting us: cooking dinner, surprising us with free included breakfast and helping us in any possible way. Luxury „camping“!

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We had three full days on Bora Bora, which was perfect. On the first day we took the bikes Marc and Rosalie offered us and circled the island in the course of the day, going North first to be able to end the day at Matira Plage. The 32km road is easily doable by bike – there’s only two hills where we had to push our bikes up, everything else is flat. We’ve of course seen quite some cool islands now, but the mountains and the lagoon of Bora Bora are special yet again! Also, the cycling was nice and relaxed, stopping for photos at viewpoints many times.

Matira Plage on the other hand was a bit of a disappointment. It surely was a pretty white beach and you can snorkel with big stingrays easily. But it was a bit too crowded and touristy for us. Still – a good beach to relax on for a couple of hours before closing our circle around the island with the final 8km back to Vaitape.

After we had circled the island, we wanted to get a view from the top. So hiking day it was! Marc dropped us off at the trek start near the fire station and off we were…to be honest, we had expected something easier and shorter. The path led up steeply and soon we were drenched in sweat (and still nowhere close to the top). However, the first views we got between the bushes encouraged us to go on.

Soon, there were ropes to climb up the steeper parts of Mt Ohue. And more and more ropes, while the views became more and more spectacular! The best was of course the view from the top though! Wow!!! Definitely one of the most amazing views I’ve ever had – if not THE most amazing one! We had an almost 360° view radius in which we could see the entire lagoon surrounding Bora Bora, the ring of motus with their over-the-water bungalows, and Mt Pahia and Mt Otemanu – just slightly higher than Mt Ohue and suddenly so close to us! Needless to say, we took hundreds of photos…

We also made a short attempt to climb Mt Pahia as well since there is a trail continuing to that peak. However, at one point this trail became a scary climbing adventure and we decided to turn around to keep ourselves safe! Unfortunately since we had expected a shorter, easier hike, we didn’t bring enough water and no snacks – so we had to get on the long way down soon. The trail brought us back down a different way, not sure where it suddenly split, but I feel like this version was shorter and a bit easier – so in the end it was all good!

Our third and last day on Bora Bora was spent in the most typical way possible I guess: We booked a lagoon tour to see everything from the boat. During the tour, there were some stops for snorkelling, the first one being in shallow waters where stingrays and blacktip reef sharks were being fed by the guides of different tour boats who all meet at this same spot. Not really my thing… but luckily when we arrived there was only one other boat. In the water it was very busy – rays and sharks everywhere, coming really close! While it was fun on the one hand, I don’t appreciate these feeding snorkel tours. I think it’s much more special when you spot rays or sharks the natural way, even if it’s less of them then maybe. So after some pictures and videos, I returned to the boat and watched the whole spectacle from the surface, with tourists splashing and screaming around and rays and sharks circling around in masses. A bit of a circus if you ask me, but there was only one lagoon tour we could find which doesn’t participate in this activity – and it was out of our budget.

We then continued our tour around the island. It was cool to see the mountains from the boat and pass by the little motus, but the best were the colours of the water! 50 (or more?) shades of blue!! Wow. And the water was so incredibly clear! Certainly one of the most beautiful bodies of water we’ve ever seen!

Lunch was prepared for us on one of the bigger motus. While our guides were cooking, we were able to snorkel with leopard rays just off the beach! Super cool!! This snorkelling was without feeding and the rays were peacefully swimming around in schools, not caring much about us snorkellers. We were even able to dive down and swim with them really closely! All in a natural way.

Then, a delicious lunch awaited us! Seriously, the bbq-fish was one of the best ones I’ve ever eaten! There was also poisson cru, the local speciality, some veggies and fruits and cakes for dessert. Not too bad!! The motu itself was very pretty too. We walked around a bit and of course went crazy with the camera!

Our tour then continued to yet another snorkelling site – Jardin du Corail (or: coral garden) – a bit disappointing since the coral were not very healthy at all and there were visible traces of people having stepped on them too many times… Sad. To end this on a good note though, overall we really enjoyed the lagoon cruise. It gives you the chance to fully appreciate Bora Bora with its clear and amazingly turquoise waters.

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Raiatea – the wild island

Raiatea was our second unplanned stop after Huahine. Due to availability and dates of our flight pass, we had to visit certain islands in order to make it to the ones we were actually interested in. Sometimes not such a bad thing (see Huahine), and also in Raiatea we spent a nice couple of days, camping at Sunset Beach Motel – which didn’t really have a beach (there are none on Raiatea), but was located in a beautiful spot, right on the water, and the site was covered in hundreds of palm trees! You only had to watch out where to set up your tent…

The first day was really only half a day, so we relaxed at the camping, went snorkelling and kayaking and organized ourselves a bit.

To see the island, we again rented a scooter the next day and drove the approx 100 km. Like on Huahine, there were very nice views at so many spots, we stopped counting our stops. Haha. The most beautiful part was the South, where there is two roads you can take: inland or along the coast. As we had enough time and wanted to see everything, we first drove around the coast…

…and later inland (return), stopping at some pretty cool viewpoints. At the highest point, there’s a sign leading to a dirt road. Follow it and you will end at a mini race car track from where there’s beautiful panoramic views. Pretty nice location for a race track – and our perfect lunch spot – until we were driven away by the many mosquitoes! One thing that’s not awesome about French Polynesia are the mosquitoes waiting for you everywhere all the time. Luckily we stocked up on mozzy spray before we came here! We heard of multiple people getting dengue fever, so don’t take the risk lightly…

We then finished the circle around the island by driving up the West coast back to our camping, passing by multiple small islets. Lucky if you’re the owner of one of these!

For the next day, we contemplated for a long time what to do. Visit Taha’a or go diving (only me since Mathijs‘ new wound was still not healed). In the end, Taha’a was just too expensive for us for what it seemed to offer, so I booked myself on two dives with Hemisphere Sub. I was lucky they still had one spot free and they were going to the two most famous dive sites of Raiatea: the Teavapiti Pass and French Polynesia’s only wreck dive – the Nordby. The dive in the pass was awesome, even though conditions were not ideal with outgoing current and low visibility since it had been rather windy the last few days. Buuuut. It was super cool!! There were lots of blacktip reef sharks and loads of schools of bigger fish such as barracudas and thelike. Twice during the dive we had a group of leopard rays passing by above us, which was probably the highlight of the dive for me!

The wreck dive was cool too. There was no big stuff to see, but the wreck itself was cool to go inside and some walls were covered in shrimps. Beautiful! It reminded me a bit of the shrimp cave I dove in the Azores about a year ago. All in all, I had two great dives with a professional dive shop – and between the dives I got to see Raiatea and Taha’a from the water and our boat was accompanied by a group of dolphins! Not too bad, right?

On our last day on Raiatea we made the mistake of forgetting what day of the week it was. Quite funny when you’re traveling for a longer time and suddenly you’re not aware of week days anymore! Haha. Unfortunately in this case it meant that the hike up Mt Tapioi we had saved for the last morning and that I had really wanted to do, was closed. It’s closed on weekends! Too bad, since we easily could have done it the day before still. Like this, we were forced into another chilling day at Sunset Beach Motel, then packed up and boarded our flight to famous Bora Bora…

Huahine – first stop in French Polynesia

Ia Orana French Polynesia! Reunited and ready to explore a new country… We arrived in Huahine very exhausted: We had spent the night at Papeete airport, trying (and failing) to get some sleep and after Mathijs’ luggage didn’t arrive, we had spent the night and morning shouting at various Air Tahiti Nui employees until someone would realize, yes it is their fault they lost it and yes we are entitled to some money. Luckily in the end we did get money indeed because since Mathijs is carrying the majority of our tent, we would have been “homeless” otherwise, with all rooms being fully booked or unaffordable for us. So when we landed in Huahine, we were hoping that our pension where we had reserved the camping would have some kind of room available for us for a night. Well… they didn’t show up at the airport and seemed to not know anything about the booking for camping. Then they said something about some lady not being there anymore, then it was possible again and in the end they offered us a bungalow for almost the same price because they said it’s too wet and rainy during the night! The couple who runs Pension Tenahe Toe Toe is super sweet and caring, communication was just a bit difficult because they only spoke English and my French is very rusty (Mathijs’ French is non-existent). But anyways – we had a place to stay, right by the water!

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The first day was a bit grey and windy, but we still set out to explore the area around our accommodation a bit. We hitched a ride down to Avea Bay beach and then walked further to the tip of Huahine-iti where a marae is located. I had hoped for a bit more, bit it really didn’t look that great or interesting and there were just some drunk locals hanging out.

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So we made our way back to our accommodation (hitchhiking worked well) where we found our hosts just as drunk, grilling a whole calf on a spit. They invited us to join for dinner and drinks which was fun but also a bit exhausting given how drunk they were. Lol.

Next morning, we hitched a ride to the main town Fare where the scooters are cheapest to rent at Isabelle Location – and in great condition! We had already seen a bit of the island the day we arrived and it looked very promising even though it was pouring down that moment. So we were very excited to explore the island by ourselves with loooots of photo stops! We first drove up past the airport to another marae, which also wasn’t that interesting for us though. Further on, we crossed a bridge to motu Ovarei. At the location of the old Sofitel, there’s some pretty streches of beach, beautiful clear water and awesome views. I’m wondering how that hotel got abandoned!?

We chilled there for a bit, and I tried snorkelling – but the current was too strong for me without fins. Supposedly this is one of the best snorkel spots on Huahine though! We then continued our way back to the main island, passing some really pretty views along the way. Sometimes we only drove a couple of meters before stopping again to take yet another photo!

Our next “planned stop” was the pearl farm. It’s on a little hut sitting in the middle of a lagoon and there’s a free boat service running back and forth. Learning a little about how pearls are made was interesting and the views from the pearl farm were really good!

After some further driving, we reached the village which is home to the sacred blue-eyed eels of Huahine. People here believe that their ancestors continue their presence on earth in the form of the eels. You can get into the water with them and touch them (slimy!) or even hand-feed them. Some people did that, so we just watched and took pictures. It was crazy how big the eels were and how many there were of them!

What followed was one of the prettiest parts of our day where we were just amazed by the mountainous beauty of Huahine! The most beautiful areas are the viewpoint/belvedere as well as the area were the two islands connect – so the South of Huahine-nui and the North of Huahine-iti.

Sometimes we just couldn’t believe what we were seeing. Are all those crazy shaped mountains for real!? Really!?? WOW. We took hundreds of pictures that day, thoroughly enjoying every minute of the day and being happy about the sunny weather!

We didn’t explore the little island (our home) that day, but instead drove up to Fare again, picked up some supplies for dinner and paid a visit to the beach from where you can see why Huahine is called the pregnant lady:

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Clear now? We relaxed on the beach for a while, I went for a little snorkel until we saw dark clouds approaching… We didn’t make it home dry anymore, but does it really matter after such a great day!?

Next day, we started off by circling Huahine-iti, going South first past the beach and marae which we knew from our first day here. Further onwards, things got more interesting again and we were awed by again crazy beautiful mountains everywhere.

Countless photo stops later, we arrived back on the big island, driving up the viewpoint once again and along the beautiful East coast. I tried a little hike at the marae but it just brought me to some further marae instead of the expected viewpoint. So we kept driving into Fare and further South again, pretty much going onto every single road the two islands have to offer! Everywhere was just beautiful again – the mountains, the water, everything.

We ended our day close to our pension with some more relaxing beach time and snorkelling. Next day we had to leave early morning – and we left wow-ed by this first island we’ve visited in French Polynesia! We didn’t expect so much from Huahine, and maybe that’s why we were so positively surprised and loved it so much!

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