Archiv der Kategorie: Sri Lanka

30 minutes in Kandy

We set off to explore Kandy, thinking it would take us 2-3h. In reality, we went to the Temple of the Tooth, had a look at the outside and the masses of people queuing up, learned about the steep entrance fee… and decided to skip it! We had a bit of a look at the lake still but Kandy was just too stressful for us at this point.

So we called it quits after about 30 min, got back to our hotel, got our luggage and headed for the bus station to catch a bus to Dambulla where we changed to another bus to Sigiriya. There, we arrived in our homestay after a short walk – and it was just the peace and quiet that we needed! The surroundings were really green and all you could hear were birds, dogs, and kids playing. I also caught the first glimpse of the Lion’s Rock from a pretty viewpoint at a nearby rice field. Simply amazing!

IMG_3282 (Kopie)

Trekking in Ella – and climbing Adam’s Peak

After the safari in Yala national park, I packed up my stuff in Tissa and wanted to hop on a bus to Wellawaya to change there for Ella. Unfortunately, the next bus to Wellawaya was only going to be 2h later – but there was an option to take an (expensive) tuk tuk to Pannegawmuna junction where a direct bus to Ella was gonna pass by soon. I didn’t fancy either option but in the end went to the junction… to be picked up by yet the fullest bus I had experienced in Sri Lanka. It was a very exhausting journey during which I had to stand the entire 2.5h. My arm muscles were hurting from constantly holding on really hard by the time we reached Ella and I must have been the most excited person getting off that bus. After another tuk tuk ride, I reached my hostel high up on a hill with great views (but a little too remote maybe). Luckily I met some people in the hostel and we immediately buddied up to walk into town for dinner and share a tuk tuk back up.

I only had one full day in Ella, so next day was busy! After breakfast, Maddie who I had met in the hostel and I headed out to climb Ella Rock. It looks easier than it is! First of all, finding the correct trail in a network of trails running up the mountain is tricky. We got lost a couple of times before we were on the right track. Then it got quite exhausting, with the trail leading up the mountain steeply for longer than we had anticipated. But when we arrived, it was all worth it – the views are simply stunning!!

We took loads of pictures, then headed down a different route to Ella town, following the GPS and Maps.Me. This was an adventurous trail, sometimes leading through grass higher than we were tall! We finally arrived back in town for a lunch snack and drink, before I continued my trekking day with Little Adam’s Peak which is muuuuch easier than Ella Rock but with nevertheless amazing views! 360° views – something you don’t get on Ella Rock.

I then continued to the Nine Arch Bridge, in fact just a railway bridge – but in a pretty setting. I found a cafe with the perfect view of the bridge and sat there with a cold coke, waiting for the train to pass to get the typical shot. It was nice – but in the end just a bridge. If you don’t have enough time for all 3 treks I did – this is the one to skip. There are also many pretty waterfalls in the area, caves, temples, tea plantations,… If I had more time, I really could have imagined staying longer in Ella.

But…I had to keep going to manage to see all the places I wanted to see!

So next morning, I went to the train station with Maddie, Leah and Jenny who I had met in my hostel. We wanted to take the train to Hatton – along the very much recommended train route Ella – Kandy. Let me tell you: While the train is overcrowded when starting from Kandy, we got perfect 2nd class seats starting from Ella. You just need to be a bit lucky as in where the nearest door is when the train stops in Ella. We were the first ones to jump onto an almost empty train and quickly took some good seats. If you can – sit on the right: it gets the better views most of the way!

We also went to stand in the open doors for a while, taking many nice pictures. The scenery was simply amazing for most of the time: mountains, rolling hills and tea plantations – with the train riding right through all of it! I was doubtful about how good this train journey was gonna be since you hear so much about it that your expectations are already set high. But, it didn’t disappoint! On contrary – one of my highlights of Sri Lanka to date.

In Hatton we got off the train and onto a bus bringing us in 2h to the little village of Dalhousie where you stay to start the trek up Adam’s Peak next day. If you can afford it, take a tuk tuk instead of the bus with some photo stops along the way, as the scenery is incredible!! Unfortunately I had to stand both ways, so couldn’t take any pictures.

It was an early night and a super early morning then for us to climb up Adam’s Peak which is a sacred place for Sri Lankans who try to climb it at least once in their life and bring some offerings to the temple at top. More and more tourists join in the fun of climbing the 5.200 steps up the 2.243 m high mountain. Yes, it’s all steps up there! And they’re all of different heights as well which doesn’t make it any easier. In short: it’s an exhausting climb! When you think you’re almost there, there’s another flight of stairs and another one and… For the last bit we were stuck in a people jam and only moved one step at a time. So budget that into your trekking time as you can’t pass by. Annoyingly this was also the part of the mountain where it got really cold – an icy wind was blowing and we were shivering, already wearing all the clothes we had. On the top, there were masses of people everywhere! It was crazy and reminded me of that evening in Hanoi when we got stuck in the crowds. Fortunately again no-one panicked. All the good spots to see the sunrise were already taken so I took my pictures holding my camera up high and kind of leaning over the heads of people, somehow trying to aim and hold the camera straight. Oh well – you can see prettier sunrises on mountain tops where you’ll be all by yourself in Austria!

Going down was (as usually for me) much more fun – Leah and I ended up running down all the way! And of course snapping some pics along the way. After a well deserved breakfast, we took an overcrowded bus back to Hatton where we just managed to jump onto the train to Kandy. A looong day – we definitely slept really well that night!

Safari time in Sri Lanka: Whale watching & hunting down leopards

After the amazing beach hopping day with Carla I was ready to do some sightseeing again. Animal sightseeing! I booked a whale watching safari in Mirissa with Raja & the Whales, an often recommended company which stands for ethical whale watching, so they don’t chase the whales or anything like that – which was really important to me. And they delivered! Start was early around 6.30 am and after heading out for about an hour, the first blue whale was spotted. There were lots of other boats around though who were not respecting the rules of giving the whale space. So R&TW announced that we would leave and find our own whales. At first I was a bit skeptical – what if we had just left behind the only blue whale we would see today? But no time to worry much: A little later we had already found the next blue whale, and this time we were there all by ourselves. We watched the whale blowing out the water, coming up and down a couple of times, before diving down for the iconic fin picture.

Over the course of the morning we saw about 5 or 6 different blue whales, some very close. On top of that, R&TW spotted a group of hundreds of striped dolphins who were jumping out of the water and even spinning sometimes, like spinner dolphins! On the way back to the harbour, we were lucky enough to observe two huge mating turtles having their fun on the surface next to our boat. The ocean safari was a full success, but it was time to move on to Yala national park for a „normal“ safari.

I had originally planned to stay in Tissa, but changed my mind last minute and continued to Mataragama – closer to the national park I thought, so maybe better for an early start. Mistake! I spent an hour walking around Mataragama, not finding any hostel or seeing any other (western/safari) tourists. I would have found some cheap accommodation in the end, but then would have had to pay the jeep for the safari by myself since there was no one to share with. So in the end I had no choice but to head back to Tissa! There was a hostel there where I immediately met a group of Frenchies who asked me if I wanted to join their tour. Yay!

Next morning it was an even earlier start than for the whale watching: we got picked up at 4.30am and drove to the park entrance where we were one of the first jeeps to drive through the gate when it opened at 6am. We raced to a spot where apparently the jeeps before us spotted a leopard. Unfortunately by the time we were in a good spot, it had laid down in the bushes and you couldn’t really see it anymore. Some people claimed to see it, but come on… Leaves, or furry part of the leopard? I guess if you really believed in it, you saw it. Haha. We continued to drive through the park and saw some nice birds, 2 or 3 elephants, some deer, crocs,… Not much, when you’ve already done a safari in South Africa!

Was the 30€ worth it? Hmm difficult to say. Like this, no, but if we would have seen the leopard nicely, definitely. So it’s up to you if you wanna toss in 30€ and try your luck.