Archiv der Kategorie: America

Rio de Janeiro & Sao Paulo – City time

We landed in Rio after a short flight from Florianopolis. A Uber dropped us at our AirBnB where we realized that we would only have about 1.5 sunny days in Rio (out of our 3.5 days). So no time to lose – on to the Sugarloaf mountain! There’s 2 cable cars that take you up first to a smaller hill, from where you already have great views, and then further to the top of the rocky mountain.

The views in all directions were really beautiful – we could see many beaches such as Copacabana and Ipanema, the center of Rio and the surrounding other mountains and hills, including Corvocado with the famous statue of Christ the Redeemer.

What was not a great, was the light we got… basically the view back to Christ the Redeemer and over the city were completely against the sun! Too bad… We also quickly realized that we had made the wrong decision by buying tickets for the train up Corvocado for next morning. Afternoon would have been much better, like this we would have the same light issue again for taking photos. Too bad, too bad… That being said, Sugarloaf was still really nice and well worth the visit. We took our time here, waiting until the sun went down a bit more, and visited all viewpoints about three times. Lol.

As mentioned, next day we woke up early and took the train up to Corvocado to see Christ the Redeemer and more views over the city and bays. We got a bit unlucky with the weather though (in addition to the light), as clouds started to come in suddenly and we almost didn’t have any view at first! Fortunately, it got better again and the clouds moved a bit during our stay up there. But still… the sun was just in the completely wrong spot for any decent photos.

Later, we made our way to the famous beach of Copacabana which was covered with hundreds of people. We walked along the beach, seeing no need to go swimming among the masses. Then we visited Copacabana fort, which was by itself nothing special, but offered good views over Copacabana and some smaller beaches on the other side.

We continued our walk to Ponta do Aproador, a rocky viewpoint at the one end of Ipanema beach and then walked along Ipanema for quite a bit too. It was just as busy as Copacabana, but in our opinion offered better views with the mountain Dois Irmãos at the end of it.

After some beach time, we went on a shopping mission: we were still missing some camping gear that had been stolen in Buenos Aires, so we unsuccessfully visited one smaller store and then Decathlon, where we found quite some stuff – having to accept that the quality will be lower than what we had before…

Next day, we woke up to grey weather (as predicted) and decided to see the city center a bit. We first went to the Museum of Tomorrow – only to see it from the outside since it’s closed Mondays. Then we passed by the Theater and the white arches of Lapa.

We continued to the famous staircase Escadaria Selarón, which is a staircase full of colourful tiles created by an artist. Full of tiles…and full of tourists! In some parts, you couldn’t even see the stairs anymore because there were so many people. Lol. If you climbed up higher, there were less people though, so that’s what we did!

From the top of the stairs, we continued up the hills until we found a good viewpoint over the city. We had wanted to visit Parque das Ruinas, but found out it was closed (Mondays?), so the other viewpoint had to do.

On our last day, weather was even worse, so we opted to go back to the Museum of Tomorrow for an inside visit this time. Honestly, it was good it was free on Tuesdays, since we didn’t find it that special. The museum aims to make you aware of the humans‘ influence on planet Earth, but for us there was not much new information.

In a short dry period, we managed to visit Parque Lage still – which was nicer than expected with some cool views! It didn’t need much time to be visited though, so later we were off to some more shopping at Decathlon. At least, now we’re done with it and can leave this whole shitty story behind us I hope.

We left Rio for Ilha Grande and later on Paraty, from where – as a last stop – we continued to Sao Paulo.

When we arrived in Sao Paulo, we were straight away fascinated by the city’s pure ugliness. Seriously, we have never seen such an ugly city! Grey, ugly buildings wherever you looked. We are also calling it „city of the homeless“ as we have never ever seen that many people living on the streets. It was crazy!

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We had two full days for the city, and started our exploration next day with little hopes to see anything remotely pretty. And right we were! We walked and uber-ed our way through the central areas, checked out a couple of churches and squares, but it was nothing to write home about.

The best part was still Liberdade, the Asian neighborhood, where they at least hang some lanterns in the street and some houses had Asian roofs. Here we got some nice noodles, which was probably our highlight of Sao Paulo.

Next day, we went to see Batman’s Alley – a street full of really cool graffiti. Ok, actually this might have been our one and only highlight of this ugly city! So, if you have to spend time in Sao Paulo, go see the graffiti and have food at Liberdade, spend the rest of the time in your hotel room. You won’t be missing out…

And with this lowlight of our whole time in South America, we said goodbye to the American continent and started our flight marathon across the ocean: Sao Paulo – Lisbon – Madrid – Addis Abeba. On to new adventures!

Ilha Santa Catarina & Ilha Grande

While in Brazil, we picked two islands to visit: Ilha Santa Catarina and Ilha Grande. We first arrived in Florianopolis on Ilha Santa Catarina after a long night bus ride from the Iguazu Falls. The bus ride was a bit odd. At one point, the bus got stopped in the middle of nowhere and some heavily armed police came in and made straight for one specific guy. Luckily, he didn’t make a drama or react in a stupid way, as a battle on the bus would have been a bit scary! They searched his whole stuff and the guy next to him, apparently couldn’t find anything and left again. Weird…and a bit scary. Was that guy still potentially dangerous but they had to let him go since they didn’t find any proof? Or was it a false tip the police received and the guy totally innocent. Things we’ll never know… Later at an actual stop, a lady came in with her husband and claimed we were sitting on her seats. Well, we showed her our tickets – we were right! Seems like the bus company sold those seats twice, but for some reason the lady got mad at us for this. Lol. Of course we just stayed seated – let her talk to the driver and sort this out! Funnily enough, the whole situation ended with us being upgraded to 1st class and giving our seats to her. Why they did not move her, I don’t understand – but we were certainly not going to complain about our awesome upgrade!

From Florianopolis, we took a local bus to the smaller town Barra da Lagoa where we had booked our accommodation for the next few nights. Barra’s beach is about 8 km long and only the first part was rather crowded. The good thing is, most people are lazy – so walking just a little bit further you will have an amazing beach all to yourself. There’s also some natural pools a short walk from town, but I found these quite disappointing: overrun and it wasn’t even real pools…

 

One afternoon, we took a hike to Praia da Galheta which turned out much hotter than expected. We took quite some water but in all honesty, it was just too freaking hot for a hike! The beach was quite pretty when we arrived, however not as deserted as we had expected. I guess quite some people walk here from Praia Mole which can be accessed by car, and was even busier. We cooled off in the ocean, relaxed a bit, walked further to Praia Mole and then took a bus back into Barra da Lagoa. It’s definitely a nice hike to do if the sun is not burning down as much as it was when we visited.

 

The rest of our time on Ilha Santa Catarina was spent mainly relaxing on Barra’s beach. We had originally wanted to do more hikes on the island, but transportation by bus takes quite long with many changes and weather was just too hot the whole time. Don’t get me wrong, it was great for a beach vacation, but just not so much for any extended hikes…

From Florianopolis we took a flight to Rio for a couple of days, from where we afterwards made our way to Ilha Grande. Even though (or maybe because?) we booked a direct shuttle, it took us forever to reach the island. We definitely prefer going on our own vs. organized tourist shuttles… Weather had been bad in Rio the last 2 days and the outlook for Ilha Grande was not great so we got a bit worried about our beach time. We immediately fell in love with Ilha Grande though: an island without streets, a relaxed little town with all the main accommodation. Even though it was high season, it didn’t feel overrun but had its charm.

 

Our first day was rather grey, so we only managed some shorter walks when it at least dried up a little. First, we hiked past some smaller beaches and not so pretty ruins up to a waterfall which was surprisingly nice! Luckily we had brought our swimsuits as it was perfectly refreshing!

 

Later, we hiked to Playa do Abraazinho which was a bit further than expected and you had to walk in the water quite a bit since it was high tide. Because of that, unfortunately the beaches were almost gone, just very narrow strips of sand were left with way too many tourists on them.

Next day, we woke up to blue skies. Nice surprise! So we decided to take on the most popular hike – which would lead us past a couple of pretty beaches all the way to famous Lopes Mendes beach. It was a sweaty hike in the heat with lots of humidity, but nice because you had some places to cool off along the way. I really liked Palmas beach, probably my favourite of the day! Next was Pouso beach – between this beach and the village of Abraao there are regular shuttle boats and at the end of the day we opted to take one of these back instead of hiking back all the way.

 

Just about 20 min further from Pouso is Lopes Mendes beach, a beach that in our opinion is a bit over-hyped. It’s definitely a nice beach, but as mentioned, I preferred Palmas beach. Also, on this side of the island there were strong waves and currents, whereas the other side was nicely protected and calm.

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On our last day in Ilha Grande, we decided to take on Pico do Papagaio, the Parrot Mountain, the highest peak of the island. Even though we started reasonably early, it was already super hot and after only about 15 min we were both soaked in sweat! It ended up being the sweatiest hike I’ve ever done. Luckily we took enough water. Unluckily, while we came closer to the top, more and more clouds came in so that we didn’t see anything at all at first. We were literally stuck in the clouds!

 

Super annoying after such an exhausting hike! We decided to eat our lunch and wait around for a bit. Fortunately, some of the clouds disappeared for a bit so that we got some views at least! The views were nice, but not the most amazing, so I’m not sure I would do this hike again.

 

After enjoying the local beer festival at night, we took a ferry to Angra dos Reis next day, and a bus further to Paraty – this time by ourselves, no package tour.

Argentina & Chile – Summary & Photos

It may seem odd that I’m doing a combined country summary for two very large countries – but since we zig-zagged our way down South, we sometimes had to remind ourselves which one of the two countries we are in right now. Also, I found more similarities between e.g. San Pedro (CH) and Purmamarca (AR), Pucon (CH) and San Martin (AR), El Chalten (AR) and Puerto Natales (CH) than for example between San Pedro, Pucon and Puerto Natales.

People: We met very friendly and helpful locals on both side, as well as a share of annoying ones. Through hitchhiking the Carretera Austral, I got a bit more in touch with Chileans than Argentinians overall. As in travellers, we met a surprising high number of Austrians and Swiss, some travelling by central car or camper. Most people we met were on a 3-5 week holiday and didn’t enjoy having as much time as we do.

Food: We cooked mostly for ourselves, went out for fast food here and there and treated ourselves to some nicer food around Christmas. Cooking for ourselves was tricky sometimes, with many ingredients not being readily available and especially our trekking food was usually rather boring and required lots of compromises. What we liked most, were the Argentinian empanadas – however the best empanadas ever we found in tiny Caleta Gonzalo on the Carretera Austral, in Chile.

Weather: Anything and everything! Burning heat in the North, cold drizzles in the South, lots of strong winds all over Patagonia… but overall we were mostly lucky with the weather and the sun came out on the most important days!

Costs: We spent WAY less than what we had budgeted for Chile and Argentina. Travelling as a couple, and with camping gear, saved us lots of money in accommodation and hitchhiking the Carretera Austral cut down our overall transportation costs. On average, including all tours and one internal flight, we spent just a little over 28 Euro per person/day. About 58% of our budget was spent in Chile, 42% in Argentina which means that relative to the days we spent per country, our daily spending for Argentina was about 25 Euro and for Chile about 31 Euro.

Accommodation: In the North and South, we stayed at quite some AirBnBs (either a room in a shared house or an apartment to ourselves), which worked out cheaper than a room in a hostel or guesthouse. In Patagonia, we camped a lot which saved loads of money. Camping for both of us usually cost less than 2 beds in a dorm and wayyyy less than a double room.

Infrastructure: Travelling by bus was easy, even though some routes in the South booked up a couple of days in advance, so required some pre-planning. Along the Carretera Austral, we hitchhiked, which worked really well and saved us lots of money!

Illnesses: None of us got ill, but the long hikes took their toll on our bodies: my knees were in bad pain on and off during our whole time in Patagonia and Mathijs‘ ankles were not always happy either. All in all we managed really well though, given all the challenges we had!

Safety: If I would have written this chapter in Ushuaia, I would have said: all good, no issues. However, when we arrived in Buenos Aires, my big backpack got stolen off a bus which was super annoying and made me realize that there are still some safety issues – not so much in peaceful Patagonia, but definitely in the bigger cities.

Itinerary: We visited both countries very thoroughly and managed to see everything worth seeing (for us). We zig-zagged our way from San Pedro de Atacama in Chile all the way South to Ushuaia in Argentina, crossing borders between both countries multiple times. A big part of our trip was spent in Patagonia on numerous hikes. Later, we flew up Buenos Aires, and after a short detour to Uruguay and Paraguay, made our way to Iguazu Falls, from where we crossed into Brazil.

Highlight: Impossible to say since we spent so much time in these 2 countries and saw so many amazing places. Hiking in Patagonia in general was awesome, the Huemul Circuit very special, as was our boat tour to the O’Higgins glacier. At the same time, Bariloche’s surroundings and the street art of Valparaiso were really cool too. You see!? Impossible to tell.

Lowlight: Getting my backpack stolen in Buenos Aires. As in places: Punta Arenas (the penguins are cool, but the city itself sucks).

Click on the photos below to see our full photo albums of Argentina:

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And Chile:

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