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Lake Malawi – Nkhata Bay, Monkey Bay & Cape Maclear

From Zambia, we crossed the border into Malawi and spent one night as a stopover in Lilongwe. Next morning, we headed to Nkhata Bay, which took the majority of the day – but we were rewarded by these beautiful views from our camping.

The next days we didn’t do a whole lot: we swam, snorkelled and rented some standup-paddleboards. It was nice and relaxing! Once, we walked down to the scruffy village of Nkhata Bay – but there’s not much to see, so we happily went back into relax-mode at our place.

Getting from Nkhata Bay to Monkey Bay further South on the lake, proved trickier than expected. We woke up at 3 am to catch the bus which was supposed to leave at 4 am. When we arrived at the bus station, the bus had already gone. Luckily, our taxi driver found us a guy who was driving to Blantyre and willing to give us a (paid) lift for most of the way. A comfortable and quick ride! After switching to another private vehicle, we arrived in Monkey Bay surprisingly early before noon. The little bay where we camped at was amazing!! Unfortunately there are some ugly pillars left in the middle of the bay which completely spoil it. Nevertheless, we spent some good and very relaxed days here – hammocking and swimming…

Our third and last stop along the lake was Cape Maclear – and it turned out to be the best one! Cape Maclear has a long strech of beach where local life mixes with tourists (not too many). People are washing dishes, clothes and themselves in the lake – so it’s not always the cleanest everywhere but still beautiful.

We loved going for a walk along the water and between the colourful boats of the locals. Everyone was friendly and allowed us to take photos. The kids all wanted high-fives and rarely asked for money.

Again, we spent a lot of time doing „nothing“, but one day we took a boat trip to some snorkelling spots to see the colourful cichlids (little fish) that live in the lake. It was actually quite nice to be among all these little fish and some started nibbling my feet.

The guides also threw some fish in the water to attract fish eagles, and we got to see some pretty cool catches. Lunch was a fish bbq on a beach of Thumbi island with beautiful views of the mainland.

The highlight of the day though was Otter Point, a part of the bay with cool rocks and beautiful water. All in all, a really nice tour – nothing really spectacular, but many beautiful small things to see.

Zambia – Summary & Pictures

People: Zambians were nice and relaxed. They made us feel very welcome. We met some other backpackers along the way, some on holidays, some on longer trips.

Food: I somehow ate lots of veggie burgers during our short time in Zambia. Lol. I’m not sure if there’s really a typical Zambian cuisine, but the international food we got during our all inclusive stay at Marula Lodge was pretty good.

Weather: Sun & heat. Travelling Zambia, I always had the lyrics „I just wanna make you sweat“ in my head. Wonder why!?

Costs: We’ve put the one day in Zimbabwe together with Zambia. Despite visiting Vic Falls, going on safari in Kafue and package-holidaying at South Luangwa, we managed to stay slightly below our budget target and spent about 46€/person/day. This is excluding the bungee jump.

Accommodation: Apart from Marula Lodge (where we stayed in a dorm), we always camped, which helped to keep our costs down significantly.

Infrastructure: There’s busses everywhere, but they take a looong time. They were also usually crammed and super hot and stuffy with no windows opening and the aircon broken for years of course. It was exhausting!

Illnesses: We both caught a stomach bug in Kafue, which kept us awake for one rather unpleasant night.

Safety: No issues. The main bus station in Lusaka was very hassly though!

Itinerary: We visited the two main highlights of Zambia – Vic Falls and South Luangwa National Park. In addition, we detoured to the lesser visited Kafue National Park, but skipped Lower Zambezi because the wildlife didn’t sound very exciting and we couldn’t find a good deal.

Highlight: South Luangwa National Park!

Lowlight: Lusaka.

Click on the photo below to see all our best photos of Zambia:

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Kafue & South Luangwa national parks

After visiting Victoria Falls, we took a bus from Livingstone to Lusaka, the capital of Zambia. We didn’t actually want to see this city, but had to pass through there twice to get to the national parks. First was Kafue National Park, where we stayed at peaceful Roy’s Camp.

Unfortunately, we both got sick during the night, so had to cancel our morning safari drive. We were able to go in the afternoon though, luckily! Else the long bus ride here would have been for nothing… But – we didn’t end up seeing many animals at all. Some elephants here and there, some impalas and pukus, but no cats or anything more special. Bush, bush, bush… too bad.

Next day, we returned to Lusaka for a night, to catch a 12 h bus the day after to Mfuwe/South Luangwa National Park. It was a looong day, but it was worth it! We stayed at Marula Lodge, a beautiful place on the river, right outside the national park. We got a really good all-inclusive package which included accommodation, food and 4 game drives. It felt like a holiday from travelling – we didn’t have to care about anything, just follow the daily schedule: breakfast – game drive – lunch – relax/pool – coffee & cake – game drive with sundowner – dinner. It was awesome!

Also, we ended up really liking South Luangwa National Park: Pretty landscapes, and lots of animals everywhere.

The highlight though was our very first game drive, during which we finally got to see leopards. Yes, not just one, but two!! We first saw the leopard cub up in the tree, toying with some leftover meat from a kill the mother made some days ago. At one point, it dropped the meat and the expression on his face was hilarious!

Then – the mother came out of the hiding to clean up after her kid. So cool! The little one then followed her down the tree and into the bush, so gone they were… This showed once again how much luck you need for spotting these cats: you have to be at the right time at the right place.

Already super happy, our guide then received a call about some wild dogs that had been spotted. Wild dogs are some of Africa’s rarest animals and you have to be very lucky to come across them. And we did!! A pack of 13 wild dogs was resting in the shade, not bothered at all by our presence…

To top it off, we saw loads of elephants and a big herd of buffaloes! A really good morning…

The other three game drives we did were also good, but just not AS amazing anymore. We did get to see lions, some hyenas and loads more ellies. And between these, we saw zebras, giraffes, impalas, pukus, hippos, crocs, loads of colourful birds, a chameleon (!!) and more.

We truly enjoyed our time in South Luangwa – finally seeing leopards and wild dogs was a great end to our safari time in Africa!